DAY 5 (PM): Nuremberg, Germany

Wednesday PM, 3 SEPTEMBER 2014 
[Tour to outside Praha: Nürnberg/Nuremberg, Germany]



Open borders, no checkpoint, just simple sign

Emerging from the rather awe inspiring interiors of Kladruby cathedral, I felt satiated enough from the visual feast to skip lunch and to head straight to Nuremberg. The journey across the border to the medieval German city and one known more for its unsavoury history in the first half of the 20th century, would take 1 hour 45 minutes. 

I was surprised that there was not even a little checkpoint booth at the Czech-German border and you could just zoom right through.Too bad, would have been nice to collect a German entry stamp in the passport.

Nürnberg/Nuremberg

The city is located in the south eastern German state of Bavaria and with a population of over 500,000 within city limits, is the second largest Bavarian city after Munich. The first documented evidence of the city dates back to 1050AD. From that time to the 16th century, the city flourished as it was on an important trade route between Italy and Northern Europe. It was also the 'unofficial' capital of the Holy Roman Empire and considered amongst the most important cities within. If you recall the great Bohemia king Charles the IV, he established one of Nuremberg's famous landmarks the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) between 1352 and 1362AD.

The city suffered ebbs and tides in fortune, saw endless political/royal squabbles and in-fighting and hit by plagues throughout the 15th and 16th centuries. Its fortunes were further diminished by the Thirty Years War in the 17th century and affected by the power struggles amongst the French, Prussian and Austrian empires. There is of course the period of the Third Reich in the 1930s and 1940s. Suffice it to say the history is complicated and so generalisations are made here. Besides, this is a holiday blog not history... 

So what did I see during the exceedingly brief 4 hour tour of the city? Well scroll on down below...  

The main aim was to visit the old town centre or Aldstadt. Most of this medieval section of the city is surrounded by defensive walls (much of which were somehow spared from being obliterated in WWII) and has many towers which served as lookout points and control centres for defence of the town. The Aldstadt is divided by the Pegnitz river and each section is named after the largest churches in the respective locations - i.e. the St Sebaldus or Sebalduskirche (which I didn't visit) and St Lorentz or Lorenzkirch (which I did).

First of "Christmas" markets called Craftsmen's Courtyard (Handwerkerhof) behind the old town walls. The huge tower Dicker Turm (Fat tower) looms large in the background

Metal crafts as souvenirs anyone?

Met Rachel, the person who would assist me in touring the city for a few hours. She wasn't German, wasn't even European, but an Aussie lass newly moved to Germany - we would see how she fared in imparting her knowledge of the place.

  

But first I had to get some food.....was starved......and street food was what first greeted my senses. 

Bratwurst on bread with mustard, and sparkling water hits the spot. Guten Appetit

Medieval armoury, the original was destroyed during WWII. This is a reconstruction from the 1950s, could be a police station now.

The first main attraction we came to was the medieval Lorenzkirche (St Lorenz church) which was badly damaged during WWII but restored post war. It should be noted that many buildings in German cities including in Nuremberg were bombed to smithereens or badly damaged by allied forces but many have been restored and/or rebuilt to look like the originals -- German precision and high technology! 

Before entering Lorenzkirche, I bought a big pack of yummy gingerbread treats to bring home from a stall strategically located in front of Lorenzkirche.

St Lorenz, a Lutheran church

Tabernacle - a stone tower, its sculptor made a figure of himself, which is placed underneath

Love these high Gothic church vaults....and finally, a proper camera angle

While guide Rachel knew her facts, I frankly can't remember much of the information imparted. Suffice it to say we covered numerous of the main attractions and generally making only quick stops. I did my usual posting of postcards (but those posted from Nuremberg have not been received as at mid-October 2014 --- not so efficient!!). I decided to bypass the Nuremberg castle and attractive quarter near Albrecht Durer's house due to lack of time and my feet were starting to hurt somewhat. 

In prior centuries, this was a free hospital. It now houses a restaurant and home for old folks

Frauenkirche commissioned by Charles the IV (the Bohemia Holy Roman Emperor), whose intention was to use this church for imperial ceremonies. I could not step back to take a full shot of the church as the large market square (Hauptmarkt) in front was filled with construction material and trucks - literally the entire area! What luck..

Schöner Brunnen or Beautiful fountain located also on the market square in front of Frauenkirche. There are 40 statues on the current fountain, which is a replica of the 14th century original

Turn the ring three times to fulfil a wish

I next had to make a decision oh which museum to visit - the main Germanisches museum, the train museum or, visit the one nearby and continue touring Nuremberg's old town. I picked the one located 3 minutes from the market square - a toy museum. I also suggested to Rachel, given my sore feet, that we should hire a velotaxi (a part motorised vehicle able to carry 2 passengers) to ferry us for the remainder of the Nuremberg tour.

Spielzeugmuseum (Toy museum)

Even today's adult engineers will have a hard time with this 'toy'

Elaborate home economics play sets

Toy soldiers galore

... and lots more toy exhibits but as we were rushing for time stayed for only 20 minutes. From here on, our journey would be by comfortable velotaxi! I don't remember the velotaxi cyclist/driver's name but he was a friendly guy with plenty of interesting stories and history about the old town centre. Kick me for not taking photos again. This is an example of what we rode in.

For the next hour plus, the velotaxi guy took over tour guide duties as he gave both Rachel and I nuggets of information about the city.

Henkersteg (Hangman's Bridge)

I could be totally wrong, but believe this is Tanner's Lane, one section of Nuremberg not destroyed during WWII. If so, the structures here are originals from 15th to 16th centuries

House with many dormers

St Elisabeth Kirche (Church)

Although the exterior looks a bit awkward, the church has a beautiful ceiling under the dome, check it out here.


Ehekarussell fountain - on ecstasy & angst in marriage

After the weird fountain, it was time to bid farewell to Rachel as she had another appointment. I continued touring with the velotaxi chap for another 45 minutes.


Zum Gulden Stern: Serving sausages here since year 1419

Bought some bratwurst in a bun from this old eatery (which may be the oldest sausage place in the world!). Very good moderately spicy bratwurst. Delicious.

Hitler once stayed in this hotel, which as at September 2014 was up for demolishing - hence the red cloth

Staatstheater (Opera house), opened in 1905. World famous opera singers have performed here

Another section of the town walls and another big tower

Hauptbahnhof (Main train station)

"Way of Human Rights" pillars in many different languages. Located in front of the massive Germanisches Nationalmuseum and this is where my tour ended

Overall, Nuremberg is a city full of history and interesting places to visit, worth staying in for at least 2 to 3 days. The Germanisches museum itself would keep one occupied for 1 or more days (for those so inclined). I also didn't have time to visit sites related to the Third Reich as they were a distance from the old town centre.

I really should return as this was a very rushed visit to this Bavarian city! 

The return journey to Praha was just over 3 hours. Got back to Praha at 9:30pm and just in time to grab some food from Billa supermart.

A very good day this! Thanks again to Nina for arranging the transportation and tours!

NEXT: Days 6 and 7, Free & Easy in Praha