DAY 15: Prague, Art Gallery, Lapidarium & Little Quarter

Saturday, 13 SEPTEMBER 2014 [Modern art gallery, Lapidárium and, final accommodation transfer]

I was fortunate the previous day as soon after leaving the modern art gallery in the late afternoon and arriving back at the hotel, it started to pour again and continued for the rest of the day. This day, 13th September however, was a fine sunny Saturday. What a great relief ...

Not satisfied with my visit to the modern art gallery at Veletržní Palác the previous day, I returned at the gallery's opening hour, 10am, and spent about 2 hours there revisiting some artworks already seen plus viewing others I had missed before. It was still very rushed as I had to check out by 2pm (had already requested a late checkout) and still had the Lapidárium Národního muzea (Lapidary of National Museum) to visit. Fortunately, the Lapidárium was only a 5 minute brisk walk from Veletržní Palác along the main street Dukelských Hrdinů.

The Lapidárium is on the Výstaviště Exhibition Ground, a multi-purpose venue that hosts trade fairs, exhibitions, cultural events and concerts. Here is also the Křižíkova fontána (Křižík's fountain), built in 1891 by František Křižík and is colourfully lit and with graphics projections on the water during musical performances at night, utilising all sorts of technical and electrical gadgetry. Nearby are the Stromovka sady (largest park in Praha) and the planetarium. This area Holešovice, just outside Praha central, really has many places of interest, and the buildings here are also aesthetically pleasing. 
 

View of intersection of Veletržní and Strojnická streets, Holešovice, Praha 7

View of Výstaviště, Prague Exhibition Ground: Industrial Palace and Lapidárium (building on the right with light-turquoise roof)

Lapidárium (closed from January to March)

Opened to the public in 1905, the Lapidárium ran into many difficulties and was closed for long periods including during the two world wars and a period of building maintenance issues during 1960 to 1980s. It contains about 400 statues, carvings, sculptures, monuments or what's left of them, made in the 11th to 19th centuries - mainly from locations in Praha, some from Kutná Hora and other places in Bohemia. These stone items were from buildings demolished in the sanitation efforts during 19th and 20th centuries, important ones (including several of the original statues on the Charles Bridge) in danger of permanent damage from the elements or, which simply no longer served their functions. The National Museum owns many fold more items than the 400 displayed at the Lapidárium. 

Entry fee was 50 Czk and a further 30 Czk for taking photos (about MYR12 or US$3.6  in total). A set of printouts explaining the halls and key exhibits in English were provided on loan for the duration of the visit. However, if you want to know exactly what you are looking at, it is best to obtain upfront, the guide book which provides the catalogue number of the exhibits and their description.

I had only 1 hour and a half and so rushed through the various sections/halls and missed some important exhibits, especially those from the earliest eras. The halls are arranged chronologically so you can view the exhibits in such order and see the progression in sculptural styles. There was probably one other visitor during the time I was there so largely had the place to myself. 

The first hall contained items from the Romanesque to early Gothic era (11th to 13th centuries).

Very good statue of Saint Wenceslas - can't find information on its original location

The second hall contained items from the Gothic period including the original statues on the Old Town Bridge Tower. These were created at Petr Parléř's workshop (which also worked on the Saint Vitus Cathedral and Charles Bridge among others). These statues look in pretty good condition and I assume they must have been restored to some degree (although I may be wrong). 

Originals that used to be on the Old Town Bridge Tower (Charles Bridge)



Statues of saints and a lion from the Old Town Bridge Tower

This is an early 16th century pillar that once stood on the shores of the Vltava right by the Charles Bridge (Mala Strana side) and damaged in the 30 Years War. There is a replacement with the statue of the mythical knight Bruncvik (holding the gold coloured sword)

The third section was the Renaissance era hall with the centrepiece being remnants of a reddish-brown stone fountain (Krocín’s Fountain), built in the 16th century, that once stood on the Old Town Square but removed from there in the 1860s.

Remains of the Krocínova Kašna (Krocín’s Fountain)

Krocín’s Fountain - used to be on Old Town Square

At the front entrance to the fourth and central hall is a massive stone structure, called the Slavata Portal aka The Bear Gate. This was once the entrance to a Baroque garden in Smíchov owned by the Slavata family. From what I can gather, this gate was somewhere at the left bank of the Vltava near where the Jirásek Bridge (Jiráskův most) is - the bridge joins New Town (where Dancing House is) to Smíchov, Praha 5. Some structures at the Baroque garden had to be removed to make way for the bridge. The Baroque garden was probably where Diezenhofer Park is now (The Langweil model of Praha should show its location...) 

Slavata Portal aka The Bear Gate

This 'bear fountain' at Náměstí 14. října, Praha 5 (which I viewed on Day 2) turns out to have once been at the Baroque Gardens of the Slavata family

It might be of interest to note that a prominent Slavata member, Vilém Slavat of Chlum and Košumberk, was one of the victims of the Second Defenestration at Prague in 1618. He survived being thrown out of a castle window ... 

Beyond the Bear Gate is the section containing 6 of the statues that once were on the Charles Bridge - three of these were brought down by floods, another damaged by artillery fire, the remaining 2 too worn down by the elements and by time.

The Virgin Mary with Saint Dominic and Saint Thomas Aquinas (Replaced on the Charles Bridge by a replica in  the 1960s)

Saint Ignatius (founder of Jesuits Order) standing on a globe with various adornments and statues beneath - representing faith over weapons and depicting people of various continents, respectively. This collapsed into the Vltava along with a section of Charles Bridge during a flood in 1890. Its former position on Charles Bridge is now occupied by statues of Saints Cyril and Methodius

Saint Ivo - this original arrived at the Lapidarium in 1909, i.e. even its replacement at the Charles Bridge has acquired some 'character'

Vision of Saint Luthgard (fairly new addition to the Lapidárium, during 1990s?, from the Charles Bridge)

Standing in an enclosed hall with 6 of these groups of statues which once were on the Charles Bridge certainly left me in awe. What fantastic works of art.

I don't recall the exhibits in hall number 5 and have no pictures so will move on to the sixth hall, another dedicated to Baroque era sculptures and statues. The most prominent here was the equestrian statue of Saint Wenceslas, a replica of which I viewed at Vyšehrad on Day 11. This original once stood on the horse market (before it was renamed Wenceslas Square) and was moved to Vyšehrad and finally to the Lapidárium. I rather prefer this statue over the current one at Wenceslas Square.



Original equestrian statue of Saint Wenceslas

Opposite the equestrian statue was the gilded statue of The Virgin Mary Immaculate - this was once on the plague column at Hradčanské náměstí (Hradčany Square). It was created by one of the most important Baroque era sculptors in Bohemia, Ferdinand Maxmilián Brokoff, who also created many of the statues on Charles Bridge.

Statue of Virgin Mary Immaculate

Emblem of Counts of Caretto-Millesimo

The above emblem of the Counts of Caretto-Millesimo, which sharp-eyed visitors to Praha will note, is located above the entrance to building number 13/597 on Celetná street

On to the seventh hall, which contained exhibits from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Decorative wooden ceilings



Venus and Fortuna (foreground) - used to be on gable of the Palác Kinských (Kinský Palace) at the Old town Square

Central portion of Wimmer Fountain: Lovers under a  palm tree with goose/duck on top. This used to be at the intersection of Jungmannovo náměstí and Národní, and later moved to Uhelný trh (coal market), which is nearby Havelská market. The replica is still at Uhelný trh

One of the Allegorical group of statues from the National Museum

Finally, into hall number 8 which had several bronze statues including the one pictured below and another of the Austrian emperor Franz I. The material for the one below was sourced from captured Italian cannons. The statue once stood on the lower section of Malostranské náměstí (Little Quarter Square) until soon after independence in 1919, when it was removed due to nationalistic sentiments. Turn of the (20th) century postcards should have a photo or illustration of the statue and square at the time.

Marshall Václav Radecký, field Marshal in the Austrian empire, from Czech nobility.

In the eight hall - Model for cast-iron relief: Přemysl welcoming Libuše's delegation

I would have made another round through the halls of the Lapidárium but time had run out. 

I exited the place, took a brisk walk back to Parkhotel Praha, paid the hotel bill and extra charges and got into a Prague Airport Transfers cab (naturally) bound for a cosy boutique hotel in Malá Strana.

Malá Strana (Little Quarter)

The hotel at Malá Strana was a special one - and although very close to the Charles Bridge and a super-busy tourist route, was extremely quiet (some rooms more so than others). Once in the room, I immediately massaged the aching-sore feet due to hours spent at the galleries and rested in readiness for an evening's stroll around Malá Strana.

From outside the hotel, just a stone's throw from Charles Bridge and the tower

Located on the left bank of the Vltava river below the Prague Castle, Malá Strana is a historic section of Praha and has some of the most interesting attractions in the city. Malá Strana was made a royal township by King Otakar II in 1257 and further extended by Charles IV in the second half of the 14th century. I'm not sure if the Hladová zed (Hunger Wall) is part of Malá Strana but it was supposedly ordered constructed by Charles IV to provide jobs to the poor and hungry residents during a famine (hence the name Hunger Wall). The town was heavily damaged during the Hussite Wars in 1419 and devastated by a major fire in the 16th century.

The red tiled roofs and church spires and towers that dot the skyline make this a most picturesque and beautiful area indeed. Taking a long stroll through the cobbled streets in the late evening or at night when said streets are lit by old-style lamps would surely be a most pleasurable after-dinner pursuit.

 

Mostecká street with view of Church of Saint Nicholas

Being early autumn and thus still peak tourist season and in the evening, Charles Bridge and Mostecká street were of course jam packed with people. But who cared, one could always look upward to admire the building architecture, look out for interesting house symbols or simply people watch. But as with the Old Town area of Praha, one just needs to step a little away from the main route to avoid the huge crowds. As below...

Maltézské náměstí (Maltese Square) - near to main tourist route but no crowds

Just before 6pm, I decided to have an early dinner, and the restaurant of choice was Restaurace u Malé velryby (Little Whale) at Maltézské náměstí. Had a starter of clam chowder and a selection of 5 types of tapas for the main. Service was excellent and food was good, although goulash and dumplings would always be my top choice in this city.

 

Interior of Restaurace u Malé velryby

Clam chowder

5 types of tapas

After dinner, strolled the streets nearby the hotel until sundown.

Karmelitská - one of the main streets in Malá Strana

Church of Our Lady Victorious (visited the interior to view the Infant Jesus - 4 days prior)

Yep, we're definitely being watched .. big Brother, fr**mas*ns, ill*min*ty, the lot.... who knows ...

Entrance to Vrtbovská zahrada (Vrtba Garden) - would visit this the following day

Karmelitská street

Intersection of Karmelitská and Malostranské náměstí

Malostranské náměstí with view of the Church of Saint Nicholas

Míšeňská street

U lužického semináře street

View of Míšeňská street from Dražického náměstí

To finish the day, some late night views from the balcony of my hotel room. Too bad the Prague Castle was blocked by a large tree, else the view would have been perfect.

NEXT: Day 16, More rain !!! Exploring sections of Malá Strana.