DAY 14: Modern Art in Prague, Veletrzni Palac

Friday, 12 SEPTEMBER 2014 [Art viewing day in Praha, Slav Epic and Others]

After raining all day and all night the previous day in Praha, one would have thought it would be a bright and sunny one on this day. Alas, that was not so as I watched in horror from my hotel room window at 8am, the rain still pouring down as if there were no tomorrow. Not to fear, this and the following day were reserved for visits to the art gallery just a stone's throw away and a Lapidarium not far from the hotel. I watched and waited for the rain to subside somewhat before dashing across to the art gallery. At 10:15am I got my chance.

Buildings like these are what give Praha character, in my view. Seen from entrance to Veletržní Palác

The Veletržní Palác (Trade Fair Palace) is a Functionalist structure built in the 1920s and as the architectural term suggests, was mainly to meet the purpose(s) for which the building was constructed, with aesthetics a minor consideration if at all. This one was originally used for exhibiting industrial machines. To these eyes, this was a large boring multi-storied mass of concrete and glass found in any modern city anywhere in the world - dreadfully dull. To be fair, the interior was quite pleasing to the eye. It is now part of the National Gallery in Praha displaying modern European art from the 19th century onwards.

Entrance to Veletržní Palác

I paid the combined fare of 240Czk for access to the permanent exhibits (which included paintings, sculptures, architecture, designs and even furniture and glass) and the magnificent and huge paintings by Czech artist Alfons/Alphonse Mucha - called the Slovanská Epopej or Slav Epic. More about this later.

Finally, after months of desiring to see the Slav Epic paintings, I was at the very venue housing them

At this art gallery, it is advisable to take the elevator to the uppermost floor and work your way down. The fifth floor had a temporary exhibition and a music related section. The second, third and fourth floors contained art by Czech artists. The third floor also had works by French artists. The first floor - works by other European artists. Mucha's 20 Slav Epic paintings were all to themselves on the ground floor. Some readers may be surprised to note that this gallery has works by some of the biggest names in modern art - Gustav Klimt, Pablo Picasso, Paul Cézanne, Claude Monet, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Paul Gauguin, Henri Rousseau and Edvard Munch. 

Veletržní Palác: Clean straight-lined architecture

Very nice interior

By late morning, there were still few visitors in the gallery - good as it allowed me to have proper views of the artworks. Photography was allowed, just no flash ... The gallery attendants who were everywhere, had temperaments ranging from indifferent to friendly (especially the younger ones).

Below are some examples of what you will see in the gallery. 

Art Nouveau panel

Art Nouveau panel

Prague and Vltava by Stanislav Sucharda, 1902

Charitas by Alfons Mucha, 1886

Theme of painting is self explanatory - I didn't note the artist and year..

Illustrations of the satirical novel "The Good Soldier Švejk"

 

Cubist head sculptures - uh uh

Cubist sculpture by Emil Filla, 1935 - not at all my cuppa

Cubist vases, glasses etc

Girl with Absinthe by Bedřich Stefan, 1924

Girlfriends by Karol Dvorák, 1924

Art Deco or Cubist - not quite sure

Czech exhibition pieces at Expo 1958 in Brussels, the first major world's fair after WWII

Glass construction, Expo 1958

Just a snapshot of a section of the gallery

Hmmm .. didn't note the artists, for me these were curiosities at best

Vulgar and grotesque ... ?!! ... !

 

... and many more beautiful, interesting or sometimes grotesque paintings, sculptures and other exhibits (about 2,000 in total). It was hard for me to understand or appreciate most of the art works of the past 50 years, but all part of the experience.

Below are some paintings by the world renown artists exhibited at Veletržní Palác.

Green Corn by Van Gogh, 1889



Lovers by Renoir, 1875

Self Portrait by Henri Rosseau, 1890, (painting's colour is distorted here, combo of lighting and camera setting)

House and Farm at Jas de Bouffan by Cézanne, 1880s

The Maidens by Klimt, 1913

Viewing these paintings up close and 'in the flesh' is such a different experience from just looking at pictures on the computer screen. You can scrutinise the brush strokes, texture, colour (with the exception of paintings placed behind glass). I was truly glad to be able to see not just 1 but 3 paintings by Klimt at this gallery. One concern was that the lighting in the vicinity of the Klimt pieces was really bright - wonder if that has any adverse impact on the paintings.

Well, I manage to do a quick walk through of the 4 to 5 levels in 2.5 hours, taking in as much as I could. I'm sure I missed out on hundreds of good art pieces (which is why I returned here the following day).

And now to the highlight of the day and one of my dozen key reasons for visiting Praha. 

Slovanská epopej (Slav Epic)

The Slav Epic is a series of 20 paintings by Alfons Mucha made from 1911 to 1926. They were painted on canvas with several reaching as high as 20 feet. From what I understand, the paintings are about the beginnings, struggles against oppression, rise and triumph of the Slavic people - depicting historical events and figures with some mythological elements weaved in.

A little about Mucha. He was a Czech painter and illustrator - an artist whom some modern art aficionados assert was at the forefront of the short-lived Art Nouveau style which was popular in the 1890s to the 1910s, and to me is one of the most attractive art forms of any era. His illustration in 1895 for the play Gismonda starring the stage actress Sarah Bernhardt created much buzz amongst the public and was the impetus for him creating more posters (for the actress) and also a string of other paintings, illustrations and advertisements. His style of this period up to about 1910 was characterised by long flowing lines and usually featuring young women decorated and/or surrounded by flora motifs depicting various topics from -the four seasons- to -time of day- to -gemstones.

A comprehensive selection of Mucha's art and illustrations can be found here. In Praha's New Town, you can find reprints of some of his art at the Mucha Museum in Kaunický Palác, Panská street (When in Jindřišská street from the direction of Wenceslas square, Panská street is the first turning to the left).

Mucha apparently sought to play down his Art Nouveau paintings and had always wanted to paint about his people the Slavs. But this desire had to be held back until he found a financial sponsor for his project, which he eventually did in 1909 in an American businessman Charles Richard Crane. He visited numerous places in Eastern Europe and consulted historians to ensure  greater accuracy in the portrayals in his paintings. Renting a castle in the Plzeň region, Mucha commenced work on the Slav Epic in 1910. One could say the paintings are allegorical - based on historical events and figures and not so much portraying actual history.

In 1919, 11 of completed paintings were displayed at the Klementinum in Praha. With all 20 paintings complete, the entire Slav Epic cycle made its public debut in 1928 displayed at the Veletrzní palác. After WWII, the paintings were moved to Moravský Krumlov chateau in South Moravia where they resided and were displayed from 1963 until the 2010s. However, in 2012, amidst legal tussles amongst various parties, all paintings not already in Praha were brought there and displayed in Veletržní Palác.  

The most recent news is that after 2014, the paintings may be shipped over to Japan in the hopes of a greater viewership at an art gallery there.

And so, on to the paintings ...

There was a steady stream of visitors but generally not many people (15-20 at any one time)

These 3 are called "The Magic of Words" featuring reformist preachers. Jan Hus is featured in the centre piece.

Benches are available so one can sit while marvelling at the paintings

I spent about 3 hours here taking time with each painting, moving on and then returning to view ones that I had seen earlier. Below are a few that most caught my eye.

Painting 1 - The Slavs in Their Original Homeland
A male and female (supposedly representing the 'adam & eve' of the Slavs) are depicted in the foreground, hiding from marauders on horseback. The allegoric floating figure is a pagan priest flanked by two youths who represent war and peace. The full painting is here.

Close up: In hiding

Painting 3 - Introduction of the Slavonic Liturgy in Great Moravia
Saints Cyril and Methodius who propagated Christianity to the Slavic people and translated religious texts into Slavic tongue are one of the key focal points here. The Moravian empire under had just invited them to spread the religion (and for political reasons). Methodius is on the earthly plane with two kneeling disciples. Cyril is in the allegorical upper segment of the painting wearing a cope. The other key allegorical figure is the boy holding a ring, which symbolises strength in unity. Painting can be seen here.

Close up: boy with ring

Painting 5: King Přemysl Otakar II of Bohemia
This is a scene from a royal wedding held in the 13th century. Diverging somewhat from the actual history, Mucha intended for it to symbolise the union of the many Slavic empires/dynasties and hence the Slavic people.

Close up: Joining hands, symbol of kinship amongst Slavic peoples

Painting 18: The Oath of the Youth under the Slavic Linden Tree
Fast forward to more modern times to a period of nationalistic fervour. This painting portrays a group of youth pledging allegiance to the goddess Slávia under the linden tree. They are surrounded by men in suits and regular folks in traditional costumes. The intention was to again portray Slavic unity and the formation of a Slavic nation. Notice, some figures' faces are without detail, i.e. unfinished.

Close up: pledging allegiance

Painting 20: Apotheosis 'Slavs for Humanity'
This painting (see here) summarises the history of the Slavic people as well as portraying a new hope for the future. One can say the painting is "colour coded"... red representing the Middle Ages, blue (figures at bottom section of painting) the beginnings of the Slavs, the grey shadowy figures their enemies and oppressors, yellow section shows soldiers of various Slavic nations returning from war (WWI) and greeted by the people. The large bare-chested central figure holds wreaths of freedom and unity, guided and blessed by a Christ-like figure behind.

On the way out of the Slav Epic exhibition area, I grabbed a set of 10x12 inch (approximately) reproductions of all 20 paintings (can't recall the cost).

Hopefully, the legal tussles will end, and a strategic, secure and permanent home found for the paintings.




NEXT: Day 15, Another day at the galleries and a final accommodation transfer