DAY 23: Prague, Nerudova. Tour Ends

Sunday, 21 SEPTEMBER 2014  [Final, a half day, in Praha]

Yep, the day was here at last, the final portion of my tour in the Czech Republic. At this point, I was manically counting the time left every half an hour.

Well, here's the customary opening picture of the Charles Bridge. But there's always a different take available of this iconic structure in Praha. And on a Sunday at 8:30am in peak tourist season, still far from crowded. A final thought for the inquisitive: the 30 groups of statues on the bridge are perhaps not simply excellent works of art as decorations with a religious significance, but arguably/likely also placed there for political reasons - a topic worth exploring further.  

Cleaners ensuring the bridge is spick and span

With only 7 hours left before leaving the city for the airport, I was in a mini-dilemma as to what to do in that time. There were still numerous "essential" places to visit or things to do which I had not. There was the ride on the historic tram 91 (which runs only on weekends in the warmer months), a ride in a vintage 1930s Skoda top down, having a meal at one of the cafés with a grand interior (e.g. Louvre or Imperial) and even another tour of Prague Castle. 

I chose to risk injury to my feet (heck it was the final day of touring) and walk the length of the rather steep Nerudova (Neruda street) and stop at many of the buildings with interesting house signs. And if there was any spare time, to have a final view of the castle. Realistically, I had only a bit more than 2 hours to do this as I still had to do some packing and managed to extend the check-out time by just 2 hours to noon.  

To the pictures ...

Dům U černého medvěda (House at the Black Bear) on Mostecká street - Baroque style facade and bear house sign are from the 18th century

There must be many more buildings with interesting house signs on Mostecká street but I was not diligent enough in looking for them.

Peering into the lower section of Malostranské náměstí (Little Quarter square)

Upper section of Malostranské náměstí (Little Quarter square), with the Holy Trinity Column

This goes to the castle

I exited the upper section of the Little Quarter Square and made my way up Nerudova (previously Ostruhová street).

Here, it would be apt to give a short introduction to the man after whom the street was named, Jan Neruda. He was a leading 19th century Czech writer, journalist and poet - exponent of Czech Realism which focused on general societal issues. He wrote thousands of articles/feuilleton on a broad range of social and cultural matters which were printed in various publications and widely read by the public. He wrote for Národní listy, a Praha newspaper in print from 1861-1941, for over 30 years.

Jan Neruda's most notable work (at least to the English speaking world as it's been translated) is the collection of 13 fictional short stories known as Povídky Malostranské or Tales of Little Quarter/Prague Tales published in the 1870s. The stories reflect the life of the inhabitants of Little Quarter in the 19th century ... covers many facets of life in these stories - romance, death and funerals, disappointments, unexpected turns of events. In his youth, Jan Neruda lived at the iconic building no.47 on Nerudova, which I visited on Day 2 and would stop by again on this day.

Beginning of lower end of Nerudova

Just for fun - what the same section of Nerudova looked like in the late 19th century, c.1899

First interesting building on Nerudova is on the right as you walk up towards Prague Castle. Building no.6 or At The Red Eagle (U Červeného orla), which has an eagle house sign (from mid 17th century) between the first and second floors. Have not found much information on its history.



Next, also on the right hand side is no.12 or known as At The Three Violins/Fiddles. This is a rather narrow building compared to most other buildings on this street. Both the building facade and the house sign are from the 18th century but the building dates back to the 14th century. The three violins depict three families of top violin makers (related by marriage or apprenticeship and, the most famous being the Edlingers)  who lived here in the 17th and 18th centuries. The place is now a restaurant/bed and breakfast. If you are lucky, you may hear a trio of unearthly spirits fiddling here on moonlit nights ...

U tří housliček (At the Three Violins)

One of my favourite house signs

 
Next door, no.14 is Valkoun House, another originally Gothic building rebuilt several times with the final reconstruction in the Baroque style. The architect Jan Blažej Santini, who is famous for combining Gothic and Baroque elements in his work owned the place and lived here in the first quarter of the 18th century.

No.16 At The Golden Chalice, with a house sign from 1660 - it was owned by a goldsmith B.Schumann. I have seen one website which states Jan Blažej Santini also owned this house and also no.14. Today it is a shop that sells used books, postcards, prints and pamphlets.

U zlaté číše (At The Golden Chalice)

Directly opposite nos.14 and 16, on the left of Nerudova is no.5 or Morzin Palace, a late Baroque style building designed by Jan Blažej Santini, and is now the Romanian embassy. This used to be a residence of the Austrian aristocrat, Count Wenzel Von Morzin (Václav Morzin). A bit of music trivia, the Count was a patron of the baroque music composer Vivaldi, and it is said that the famous violin concertos The Four Seasons were dedicated to the Count. Above the entrances/portals are two busts, which are allegories of day (Dies) and night (Nox). Prominent on the facade are two statues of Moors holding up a balcony - possibly a pun on Mor-zin or, some other meaning? At the top of the palace are statues that are allegories to 4 continents - Europe, Asia, America, Africa. Apparently, the interior of this building is no less interesting, perhaps if one can have access to it ...  

Morzinský palác (Morzin Palace)



3 doors from Morzin's Palace, we have no.11 At The Red Lamb, a neo-Baroque building constructed in the late 19th century. Why a red lamb? Well, there's the explanation that red is the most important colour in alchemy and this building (and numerous others on this street) may have been inhabited by alchemists. Probably the most attractive building in Praha supposedly related to alchemy and the supernatural and with an interesting history is Faustův dům (Faust House) in New Town. But I digress.. 

U červeného beránka (At The Red Lamb)

Opposite of At The Red Lamb, is building no.20, the Kolovrat or Thun-Hohenstein Palace, with what to me are a menacing-looking pair of eagle statues above the entrance. It was built in the 1720s for the Kolowrats (Kolovrat), Czech nobility with origins dating back to the 14th century (who served Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV). The statues reflect the family's coat-of-arms which has a pair of eagles. The palace was an amalgamation of 5 buildings and probably designed by Jan Blažej Santini, and if so would be considered one of his top palace designs. The statues here are all by the artist/sculptor Matthias B Braun, some of whose works are on the Charles Bridge and on the facade of Clam-Gallas Palace to name a few. Less than 50 years after its construction, the Thun-Hohenstein family, an Austrian-Bohemian nobility, came into ownership of the palace by way of marriage to a Kolovrat. The Italian government bought the building in 1924 and has been using it as their embassy.

Thun-Hohensteinský/Kolovratský  Palác (Thun-Hohenstein or Kolowrat Palace)

After the Kolowrat palace, on the opposite/left hand side at no.15, we have At The Golden Crown - with a plain Renaissance style facade and a house sign originating from the latter half of the 16th century. This was the former Kinsky Palace.

U Zlaté Koruny (At The Golden Crown) - not to be confused with the one in Old town

At this point, one would be halfway along Nerudova.

One will pass a church (Church of the Virgin Mary and of St. Kajetán) and several buildings before arriving at no.25 which (when I looked at it) has no visible house sign but with an interesting history. It is known as At The Donkey In The Cradle (U Osla v kolébce). The name is supposedly because there used to be a fresco of the nativity on the building's facade(?) but today only the donkey and cradle are visible. The famous late 17th/early 18th century court carpenter Marek/Joseph Nonnenmacher lived here. [I've seen a website stating that Jan Neruda lived here from 1835-1841 (as a baby/little child) when his parents operated a grocery store and that the first story from Jan Neruda's Prague Tales, "A Week In a Quiet House" has a setting in this building]

Directly opposite no.25 on the right hand side is no.26 At The Golden Eagle, where the 16th century Italian architect, builder and stonemason Ulrico Aostalli de Sala once lived. He worked on various projects at the Prague and Karlštejn Castles and castles in other towns. Apparently this building replaced a moat that used to separate Prague Castle from Hradčany. A souvenir store now operates at ground level.

U Zlatého Orla (At The Golden Eagle)

Next door is no.28, At The Golden Wheel, a building which dates back to the end of the 15th century, but later rebuilt with a Baroque facade. The house sign is from 1634 and the wheel could be related to alchemy... This building is also at the location of a moat previously separating Prague Castle from Hradčany. It is now a boutique hotel with some very nice rooms (decorated wooden ceilings) and nice views from the rooftop for certain rooms.

U Zlatého Kola (At The Golden Wheel)

Back on the left hand side of the street directly across from no.28, is no.27 At The Golden Key, a building with a combination of Baroque and Classical features. The house sign is from 1844. As with buildings nos. 26 and 28, this building is located on a previous moat. A boutique hotel recently opened here. 

U Zlatého Klíče (At The Golden Key)

Late morning, close to noon, is not a very good time for photo taking hereabouts. The shadows across part of the buildings (on the right side of the street) do not allow for pleasing photos.

Moving on to no. 33 on the left hand side is Bretfeld Palace, At The Summer And Winter, Summer and Spring (Bretfeldovský palác U léta a zimy, Léto a jaro). This pastel green-coloured corner building has a balcony (with gold coloured adornments) and, a relief (Saint Nicholas with two putti) almost at the top. The then owner Count Bretfeld used to host grand balls and concerts here in the 18th century. Apparently, guests included Mozart and the Casanova.

On the opposite (actually just before Bretfeld Palace) is no. 34, At The Golden Horse Shoe. One might expect a large horse shoe somewhere on the building's facade, but see only a fresco of the Good King Wenceslas above the entrance (the horse shoe hanging from the wall doesn't count!). Upon scrutiny of the fresco, you will see the horse shoe on the front left hoof of his horse. Originally a Gothic building probably built in the early 15th century, this place underwent reconstruction in the 16th century and the house sign comes from this latter period. The fresco has been restored and the horse shoe is a new one. There are now rental apartments here. 

U Zlaté Podkovy (At The Golden Horseshoe)

Almost at the end of the street

Next up are 3 adjoining buildings with noteworthy house signs: No.39 At The White Beet, no.41 At The Red Lion, no.43 At The Green Lobster.

No.39, At The White Beet's past inhabitants include several families of sculptors. The celebrated Czech theater, film and TV actor, Josef Kemr, also lived here. His biggest film role was in the 1967 epic and critics' choice as one of the best ever Czech films - Marketa Lazarová - which is set in the 13th century and certainly has none of the H*llywood gloss for a medieval-era film. The beet sign is from the early 17th century.

U Bílé řepy (At The White Beet)

No.41, At The Red Lion, probably like its neighbour, was a Gothic type house rebuilt in the Baroque style in the 1720s. The house sign, from 1608, seems to have so many symbolisms - the red-coloured lion holding a chalice/goblet, resting a leg on a block with hexagonal pattern, the lion turning back to look at some kind of cloud formation. Anything to do with alchemy(?) ... who knows.

U červeného Lva (At The Red Lion)

No.43, At The Green Lobster, also from Gothic times later rebuilt in the Baroque style and the house sign like its neighbour, is from 1608. In the 1960s, modifications were made to the interior along with no.41, effectively turning both into one building.

U Zeleného Raka (At The Green Lobster)

And next my favourite, no.47 At The Two Suns, the building where Jan Neruda lived in his youth. It is from the Renaissance era rebuilt with an early Baroque type facade. Its house sign with the two 'suns' is the original from the Renaissance era. One wonders what is the significance of the rather glum looking faces. Jan Neruda lived here from 1845 to 1857 when his father operated a tobacco shop. Upon his father's passing, Jan Neruda moved with his mother (whom he was very fond of) across the street to no.44, At The Three Black Eagles. From the pictures, a few stores (including one selling marionettes) and a restaurant currently occupy the ground floor.   

U Dvou Slunců (At The Two Suns)

Why the not so sunny disposition

The plaque at no.47 is from 1895. With help from some web translators, it reads roughly as "Jan Neruda lived and started his literary works here".

  

Next door, no. 49 is At The White Swan another building from the Gothic period but rebuilt in the Baroque style. The house sign is from the early 1600s. 

U Bílé labutě (At The White Swan)

Finally, building no.48, which is the one you will see at the top end of the street. Called At The Golden Star (see below for the long name), it has a Baroque facade from the 1700s. Notice also the eye of providence on the gable of the building. It is now a hotel.

At The Golden Star, At the Three Magi, At the Three Miners (U zlaté hvězdy, U svatých tří králů, U tří horníků)

Widest point of Nerudova. Apart from the vehicles and some cosmetic building facade changes, this scene has not changed that much from 100 years ago.

View of Schwarzenberský palác with its sgrafitto exterior and Ke Hradu (the road leading up to the castle)

Nerudova ends at house no.51, with no.48 being at the highest point of the street. From here, at left is Úvoz (direct translation - ravine), an even steeper street, and almost as long as Nerudova, that also has numerous interesting house signs. Once at the top of Úvoz, one would already be quite near the Strahov Monastery. On the right is Radnické schody (i.e. town hall stairs) which leads to Hradcany square. I would have taken a walk halfway along Úvoz but ran short of time instead I took the stairs. There are some nice views to be obtained from here. Compared to the bustle of the surrounding area, this staired passage was an oasis of tranquillity - there was hardly anyone there. 

Looking towards Ke Hradu from Radnické schody

Close up view. Žižkov TV tower be gone!

Radnické schody: Hardly any tourists come here. You can drop by one of the cafes and just relax

The stairs, lead to where Loretánská ends and meets Hradčanské náměstí (Hradčany square). I had a grand total of 15 minutes to have a look around before having to descend the stairs and Nerudova and then dash back to the hotel.

Ride in a restored veteran Skoda from the 1930s, something I intended to do but did not in the end

   

Schwarzenberg Palace (Schwarzenberský palác), a 16th century Renaissance palace, now an art museum

West entrance of Prague Castle

Archbishop's Palace (Arcibiskupský palác)

There used to be an 8-branched gas lamp just like this on Wenceslas Square. This is from the 1860s

Tuscan Palace (Toskánský palác) on Hradcany square, Baroque palace constructed in late 17th and early 18th centuries. Now houses the Ministry of Foreign Affairs

From the Tuscan Palace, it was rush rush rush back to the hotel, although I couldn't resist making a stop at Pražská čokoláda (no.46 on Nerudova) which sells some tasty chocolates, conveniently using up the last of my Czech crowns. 

Back at the hotel, cleared my room and as I still had several hours before the ride to the airport, I requested to keep my luggage in the hotel's storage room for that period. Just want to say that Hotel Bishop's House is a wonderful hotel that is well managed and operated by courteous staff. It's not exactly cheap but value for money considering its location, which is right in the centre of all the key areas in Praha that a visitor is likely to want to visit, i.e Little Quarter, Petřín hill, Old and New Towns. For the fit and able, it's not too difficult to walk to Letná, Holešovice or even Vyšehrad from the hotel (25-45 minutes one way).

For me last meal in Praha, I decided on a return visit to the nearby Lokal Restaurant, for some guláš and home made klobása. 

Excellent hotel in a fantastic location

Great restaurant just 3 minutes from the Charles Bridge-Mostecká street tourist route

 

Final look around from Charles Bridge

The party goes on in Praha

  

A car from the ever reliable Prague Airport Transfers arrived at 3pm sharp (as per my booking by email) for the trip to Václav Havel Airport. The flight was delayed by 45 minutes owing to some "technical issue". Fortunately, I had some buffer time to make it to the connecting flight at Frankfurt airport. Apart from that, the long haul flight back was just normal (i.e. the worst and most horrible part of any long distance holiday). But, I had too many beautiful memories to bring back home to be bothered by it.   

Just a final word on places to see in Praha and the Czech Republic. Those who have looked through the day by day account of my 23 days in Praha/Czech Republic, will notice that apart from a cursory visit of Prague Castle and the castle in Český Krumlov, visits to castles were conspicuously absent. There are easily a dozen castles throughout the country worthy of a half day or more tour. A few may be close enough to one another to be included in a full day's trip, for the fit and able of course. These castles are mostly open at 'regular' hours from May to September and, only on weekends & public holidays in April and October.

In Bohemia, apart from the popular Karlštejn castle, there are Křivoklát (west of Praha), Loket (west, near Karlovy Vary), Kokořín (north), Kost (northeast), Zvikov (south), Český Šternberk (southeast) and Kašperk (south west). Perhaps one of the most romantic in Bohemia is the ruin Trosky located northeast of Praha at the edge of the beautiful nature reserve Český Ráj. 2 other ruins Rabi (southwest of Praha) and Bezděz (north) may also be worth visiting.

In Moravia, some of the castles would be Pernštejn (2 hours east of Praha), Bítov (2.5 hours southeast of Praha), Bouzov (3 hours east of Praha or 30 minutes north west of Moravian city Olomouc), the part ruin Helfštýn (3 hours east of Praha, 30 minutes east of Olomouc) and certainly more. The cities of Brno and Olomouc would make good bases from which to make day tours to these castles, in addition to having their own attractions.

Then there are the chateaus and palaces (some quite 'touristy' but attractive anyway) ... In Bohemia [Hluboká, Konopiště, Lednice-Valtice, Frýdlant, Litomyšl, Červená Lhota, Žleby (where you can see white deer in summer); Hospital & Church in Kuks]; In Moravia [Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou, Kroměříž, Slavkov U Brna together with the Peace Monument-Mohyla míru, Buchlovice] ... too many ...

Happy exploring!

Litomysl

<FINIS>

Yep, was watching the flight path on the screen every 15 minutes, the entire 11 hour journey