There are numerous studies and articles stating Czechs are among the least religious in all of Europe and indeed the world. Countrywide, only about 30% profess to be Christians and which is probably heavily skewed by the far more religious in Moravia, compared to in Bohemia. Purely my conjecture (well judging from the rather empty churches), it seems at most, only 10-15% of Prague residents would call themselves Christian.
Why this low level of faith? Probably a combination of factors - the historical clashes and wars between Catholics and Protestants/Hussites in the 15th to 17th centuries, the ensuing two centuries of forced re-Catholicisation resulting in increasing loss of faith in the Catholic church and associating it with a foreign empire, and of course, 50 years of Communist indoctrination. However, having been established in the country for over 1,100 years, Christianity has left an indelible mark on the country and Prague in particular, with dozens of beautiful churches built in centuries past still dotting the city especially in the centre of Prague.
I have skipped the most well known churches namely Cathedral of St. Vitus, the two St. Nicholas churches and Church of Our Lady Before Týn as these are already extensively covered and well known. The Church of Sts. Peter and Paul is in the post on Vyšehrad.
In uncovering these churches, I used numerous web and printed resources, and even blindly wandering on Google street map. Some of the websites that I found which provide excellent recommendations and backgrounds or summaries include:
www.1pragueguide.com/churches
www.prague.net
www.prague.eu/en
www.pragueexperience.com
See also, Prague Churches: Part II and Part III.
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
CHURCHES IN OLD TOWN
The chapel associated with the reformist preacher Jan Hus who preached here in 1402 to 1412. Built in 1391, services were held solely in the Czech language thus, breaking from the mould of German being used in churches. It was changed into a Catholic church after the defeat of the Protestants in 1620 at White Mountain and, emperor Joseph II had it demolished in the 18th century with just a wall remaining. Ironically, in the 1950s under the Communist government, the chapel was rebuilt according to its original plans and with a capacity to accommodate 3,000 people. Located on Bethlehem square (Betlémské Náměstí), this is an iconic religious building to visit in Prague. There are some eateries nearby notably Klub Architektů opposite the chapel. ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Convent of St. Agnes of Bohemia (Klášter Sv. Anežky České)
 |
| Photo source: www.ngprague.cz |
St. Agnes of Bohemia was of royal descent, the youngest daughter of Bohemian king Přemysl Otakar I. Instead of having to deal with palace intrigues, she chose a life of piety - helping the sick and poor and, was also somewhat involved in cultural activities. Between 1231 to 1234, she founded the convent of the Poor Clares and a Franciscan monastery at the present location. Under Hapsburg emperor Joseph II, the convent was abolished and the premises left to deteriorate. Saved from total demolition in the late 19th century, it was restored over the following half century and handed over to the National Museum. The former convent is considered the first Gothic building in Prague and has now a permanent exhibition of Czech late medieval and Renaissance art.
More information>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Church of St. James the Greater (Kostel Sv. Jakuba Většího)
 |
| Photo source: en.wikepedia.org |
More information>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Church of St. Giles (Kostel Sv. Jiljí)
The church stands on the site of a small church dating back to the first half of the 13th century. In the early 14th century, the nationalist bishop Jan IV of Dražice began a total reconstruction and the work was later completed by Archbishop Arnošt of Pardubice. Jan Milíč of Kroměříž, arguably an influence on the reformist preacher Jan Hus, was at a time based in this church. Characterised by its Gothic exterior and uneven height of its towers, its Baroque interior is considered one of the most beautiful in Old Town with its many frescoes, marble columns and main altar, among other features. The Dominicans have been at the church since the 17th century and responsbile for the Baroque interior. Catch a classical music performance here to hear the sounds of Prague's largest classical organ.
More information>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Church of St. Gall (Kostel Sv. Havla/Svatý Havel)
Founded by King Wenceslas I in 1232 at the same time as development of the area in its vicinity called Gall Town (Havelské Město), this was one of Prague's main churches at the time. In the mid 14th century, Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV donated a relic, the head of St. Gall to the church, hence the name. From 1380 to 1390, St. John of Nepomuk was at this church. From its prior Gothic incarnation, the church was reconstructed in the Baroque style in the 17th and completed in the early 18th century. In the Holy Cross chapel are the wooden sculptures of Cavalry by the renown sculptor of Baroque statuary, Ferdinand Maxmilián Brokoff, who created numerous of the statuary on Charles Bridge. As with many churches in Prague, this one holds classical music concerts from time to time. One could also climb its steeples for good aerial views of the area.
More information>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Church of St Martin In The Wall (Kostel Sv. Martina Ve Zdi)
This is a gem tucked away in the less explored area of Old Town and close to Národní Třída. It was originally a Romanesque church built in the 1180s. About 1230, walls around Old Town were constructed and one section of the wall connected with the southern side of the church, hence the 'in the wall' part of its name. The church had a Gothic makeover during the reign of Charles IV and the rib vaulting is considered one of the earliest in the country. As an ultraquist church (on good terms with both Hussites and Catholics), it was not destroyed or damaged in the Hussite Wars. In the 18th century, the emperor Joseph II (again!) abolished the church which became a residential. In the early 20th century, the church was reconstructed and post WWI assigned to the Evangelical Church of Czech Brethren (largest Protestant church) which runs it today. Catch a classical music performance here to see the modestly decorated interiors.
More information>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Church of Sts. Simon and Jude (Kostel Sv. Šimona a Judy)
More information>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Church of St. Salvatore or Holy Saviour (Kostel Nejsvětějšího Salvátora)
The easiest church from this list to locate, as it faces Charles Bridge. The first church on the site was Church of St.Clement with a Dominican monastery. With the arrival of Jesuits in Prague, they rebuilt the church first in a Renaissance style and then to its present Early Baroque appearance around the 1630s to 1650s using the designs of early Baroque architect Carlo Lurago. The distinctive facade has a tympanum at the top and porticos decorated with sandstone statues created by sculptor Jan Jiří Bendl, considered the first Bohemian Baroque sculptor. The facade keeps with the theme of the Old Town Tower facing it - statues of saints and Virgin Mary depicted on the facade. Apart from the main altar and apse and some chapels, the rest of the interior is rather modestly decorated with cream-white stuccoes on the pillars and vaults. Today, it is an active church but classical music performances are also held here.
More information>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
A TRIUMVIRATE OF ROTUNDAS
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Rotunda of the Holy Cross, Lesser (Rotunda Sv. Kříže, Menšího)
Location: Old Town. Earliest documentation of this rotunda's existence dates to 1365. However, excavations unearthed flooring and parts of tombstones from the 13th century and nearby the church, a coin from the 11th century, implying the rotunda is at least a century older. In 1625, the Dominicans took over until the church was abolished by (ahem) Joseph II about 160 years later, turning it into a warehouse. In 1860, it came under threat of being torn down but was saved by the Arts Forum (a movement of Czech artists and writers), led by the painter Josef Manes. The rotunda was restored a few years later. There are several legends associated with it: This used to be the site of a pond and a girl who converted to the religion was thrown in tied to a cross and drowned; a creature used to live near the rotunda and would assault passers by deemed to be immoral. Small structure but what a history and stories. It is an active Catholic church today.
More information>
Location>
The church stands on the site of a small church dating back to the first half of the 13th century. In the early 14th century, the nationalist bishop Jan IV of Dražice began a total reconstruction and the work was later completed by Archbishop Arnošt of Pardubice. Jan Milíč of Kroměříž, arguably an influence on the reformist preacher Jan Hus, was at a time based in this church. Characterised by its Gothic exterior and uneven height of its towers, its Baroque interior is considered one of the most beautiful in Old Town with its many frescoes, marble columns and main altar, among other features. The Dominicans have been at the church since the 17th century and responsbile for the Baroque interior. Catch a classical music performance here to hear the sounds of Prague's largest classical organ. ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Church of St. Gall (Kostel Sv. Havla/Svatý Havel)
Founded by King Wenceslas I in 1232 at the same time as development of the area in its vicinity called Gall Town (Havelské Město), this was one of Prague's main churches at the time. In the mid 14th century, Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV donated a relic, the head of St. Gall to the church, hence the name. From 1380 to 1390, St. John of Nepomuk was at this church. From its prior Gothic incarnation, the church was reconstructed in the Baroque style in the 17th and completed in the early 18th century. In the Holy Cross chapel are the wooden sculptures of Cavalry by the renown sculptor of Baroque statuary, Ferdinand Maxmilián Brokoff, who created numerous of the statuary on Charles Bridge. As with many churches in Prague, this one holds classical music concerts from time to time. One could also climb its steeples for good aerial views of the area.______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Church of St Martin In The Wall (Kostel Sv. Martina Ve Zdi)
This is a gem tucked away in the less explored area of Old Town and close to Národní Třída. It was originally a Romanesque church built in the 1180s. About 1230, walls around Old Town were constructed and one section of the wall connected with the southern side of the church, hence the 'in the wall' part of its name. The church had a Gothic makeover during the reign of Charles IV and the rib vaulting is considered one of the earliest in the country. As an ultraquist church (on good terms with both Hussites and Catholics), it was not destroyed or damaged in the Hussite Wars. In the 18th century, the emperor Joseph II (again!) abolished the church which became a residential. In the early 20th century, the church was reconstructed and post WWI assigned to the Evangelical Church of Czech Brethren (largest Protestant church) which runs it today. Catch a classical music performance here to see the modestly decorated interiors. More information>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Church of Sts. Simon and Jude (Kostel Sv. Šimona a Judy)
 |
| Photo source: www.fok.cz |
The church is located between the Jewish museum and Convent of St Agnes, near the Vltava. This started out as hospital with a church in the 1350s. From 1615-1620, the chapel was expanded into a church with a blend of Gothic and Renaissance architecture and, about 100 years later remodeled in Baroque style with a pipe organ installed. At the end of the 18th century, it had the only hospital in Prague, was a scientific centre (medical related) and a sought after venue in Central Europe to hold music performances. The Prague Symphony orchestra maintains the church and holds chamber music concerts. There are no church services held at present.
More information>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Church of St. Salvatore or Holy Saviour (Kostel Nejsvětějšího Salvátora)
The easiest church from this list to locate, as it faces Charles Bridge. The first church on the site was Church of St.Clement with a Dominican monastery. With the arrival of Jesuits in Prague, they rebuilt the church first in a Renaissance style and then to its present Early Baroque appearance around the 1630s to 1650s using the designs of early Baroque architect Carlo Lurago. The distinctive facade has a tympanum at the top and porticos decorated with sandstone statues created by sculptor Jan Jiří Bendl, considered the first Bohemian Baroque sculptor. The facade keeps with the theme of the Old Town Tower facing it - statues of saints and Virgin Mary depicted on the facade. Apart from the main altar and apse and some chapels, the rest of the interior is rather modestly decorated with cream-white stuccoes on the pillars and vaults. Today, it is an active church but classical music performances are also held here. More information>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
A TRIUMVIRATE OF ROTUNDAS
Prague has a charming trio of diminutive (double) cylindrical churches - one each in Old Town, New Town and Vyšehrad. They have all been restored or reconstructed to their original Romanesque architecture. Let us meet them.
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Rotunda of the Holy Cross, Lesser (Rotunda Sv. Kříže, Menšího)
Location: Old Town. Earliest documentation of this rotunda's existence dates to 1365. However, excavations unearthed flooring and parts of tombstones from the 13th century and nearby the church, a coin from the 11th century, implying the rotunda is at least a century older. In 1625, the Dominicans took over until the church was abolished by (ahem) Joseph II about 160 years later, turning it into a warehouse. In 1860, it came under threat of being torn down but was saved by the Arts Forum (a movement of Czech artists and writers), led by the painter Josef Manes. The rotunda was restored a few years later. There are several legends associated with it: This used to be the site of a pond and a girl who converted to the religion was thrown in tied to a cross and drowned; a creature used to live near the rotunda and would assault passers by deemed to be immoral. Small structure but what a history and stories. It is an active Catholic church today. More information>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Rotunda of St. Longin (Rotunda Sv. Longina)
Location: New Town. Smallest of the three, it was built in the early 12th century at this spot which was on a settlement called Rybník and the land owned by the Benedictine order of Břevnov. The Teutonic Knights acquired it in the 13th century, sold it to the Bohemian queen who then donated it to the St. Francis hospital founded by St. Agnes. In the 14th century, it was rededicated to St. Longinus, the Roman legion who participated in the crucifixion but later full of remorse - some of St Longinus' relics were brought to Prague by Charles IV. It was used as a store in the late 18th to mid 19th centuries. It was properly restored in the period between the two World Wars and is today a Catholic church. An interesting point is that on a map, a straight line can be drawn through the locations of the Rotunda of St. Longin, the Rotunda of the Holy Cross and the replaced Rotunda of St. Vitus (location of the Cathedral of St. Vitus) - giving an exact alignment of the sun during the winter and summer solstices. More information>
Location>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Rotunda of St. Martin (Rotunda Sv. Martina)
Location: Vyšehrad. This is the oldest of the three rotundas, probably the best maintained and most visited by tourists. It was first mentioned in documents in 1396, but likely built in the second half of the 11th century. Subsequent centuries saw it being looted, burnt and suffering damage in war. Another victim of Joseph II's clean up of churches, it was used to store gunpowder upon completion of Vyšehrad as a fortress. The rotunda was almost demolished in the mid 1800s to make way for the road that runs just in front of it. Subsequently, it was a residential for the poor until the Vyšehrad canonry bought it in 1882 and had it restored to its present look. It is used as a church today and open only during services. More information>
Location>
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Prague Churches: Part II
No comments:
Post a Comment