DAY 18: Prague, Segway on Petřín

Tuesday, 16 SEPTEMBER 2014 [3-hour SEGWAY tour, Staré Město again]

The highlight of this day was a 2-hour tour riding on a Segway (a bad word I know for many Prague residents). First however, yet another stop at the Charles Bridge just to observe people and other views. It was a second consecutive fine and sunny day with no rain clouds in sight.  

Dražického náměstí (Dražic square) - a very small square about 30-50 metres from Charles Bridge. It used to be called Uhelniště as it was a coal market but renamed in the 19th century as Dražického after the 14th century nationalistic bishop of Praha John IV of Dražic.

 

 

Before the Segway tour, there was of course a practice session. The Segway, a two-wheeled battery-powered motorised vehicle is operated wholly by shifting the user's body weight, i.e. to move forward you shift your body weight forward and lean back to slow down or stop. I wouldn't say it is an easy vehicle to use on first try but I was sort of able to manoeuvre it in about 10 minutes which is apparently the average for most people. The cobbled streets of Praha made it extra challenging to use. I did experience 2 moments where the vehicle felt somewhat out of control in spite of my trying to slow down - fortunately, there was no incident of falling splat on the ground.

The Segway is useful during tours as they can cover so many more destinations for the same time period AND for people with feet injuries like myself, a fantastic vehicle with which to ascend and descend hills (without causing further stress or injury to the feet), and negotiating hills and slopes was the main agenda for this Segway tour. I requested the guide take us to as many sights on Petřín hill as possible with one must-visit church located in one of the gardens on the hill.   

First was a quick zip to the Lennonova zed' i.e. Lennon Wall at Velkopřevorské náměstí nearby the Segway office. [17-Nov'2014 news - Shocker! the wall was vandalised, with all existing graffiti completely painted over with white paint with only the words "Wall is Over" on it. However, within 6 days, the wall was almost back to being filled with Lennon or Beatles related graffiti and probably back to normal now].

Then to a short bridge located near the Lennon wall and the waterwheel at Little Venice.  

Looks like many European cities have one or more of these bridges with love-locks.

From the bridge, it was straight to Petřín hill, the main reason for the Segway tour. Petřín is reasonably popular with tourists who wish to go off the beaten path and with locals who make their way here during the warm/warmer months to relax in the gardens and parks spread across Petřín. 

One of the parks on the lower part of the hill

Peering down at part of the funicular line

After 15 minutes of making many twists and turns and zooming along straight paths on the hill, we finally arrived at Kinského zahrada (Kinsky Garden) the location of the church. A few more twists and turns and we were at the foot of a steep slope. As it was a steep final climb and probably would have sapped too much energy from the Segway batteries, it was decided to leave them at the bottom of the climb and walk to where the church was located. There are absolutely no signs or indications of a church or structure here, it is quite well hidden.

From the location of the church. Segways parked below behind the bushes

Behold the church, a wooden one, Church of Saint Michael. It is an Orthodox church with services held a few times a week. Not only is such a wooden church unique in Praha, its history is also interesting. The church was originally constructed in the village Velké Loučky (big "glades") near Mukacheve, Zakarpats'ka oblast in far western Ukraine in the latter half of the 17th century. It was later moved to another village or town in Ukraine before being disassembled and brought to Praha in 1929 and reconstructed on Petřín hill as per the original. Information on the church can be found here. 

Church of Saint Michael, all wood, all the way from Ukraine

Onion shaped domes, similar to such wooden churches in Slovakia and Ukraine

Spent some time looking at the church from various angles. The church was closed - were it open, I would have taken a peek within. It seems that beneath the highest tower is a section of the church only for women, to hold discussions and chat - church does not seem large enough for a separate section. The Segway guide and I were not the only visitors here. There were about 4 to 5 others also admiring the church.

The church aside, while looking at places to visit in Praha, I had also seen photos of an interesting sundial pillar located somewhere in the Kinsky Garden. Probably worth looking for it if one is in the area.

Next stop on Petřín was the Hladová zed or Hunger Wall which stretches from near Újezd street (not far from the Memorial to the Victims of Communism metal sculptures) cutting across the hill to Štefánik's Observatory and spanning most of the western part of the hill up to Strahov Monastery. It is a white/cream coloured wall and sections of the wall are visible from numerous locations in Praha including from all along Most legií (Legion Bridge) and up to the Kavárna Slavia side facing Národní třída. Built on the orders of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV in 1360 - 1362, out of stone quarried from the hill, the wall was for the protection of the southern part of Little Quarter and to fortify Prague Castle defences to the west and the south. However, the romanticised version suggests that the wall was built to provide wages for the hungry residents who could then buy food for their families. Probably the best explanation for the name is that the wall was built for strategic reasons at a time of widespread hunger and the work generated by the construction helped feed families.      

A small segment of the Hunger Wall

One of the gaps/gates in the wall

There were much more interesting sections of the Hunger Wall, but we did not go there. 

Restaurant Nebozízek in Petřín Park, next to funicular line

View of the Vltava and Old Town from Petřín hill (from one section of the funicular line)

We next moved to the site of the Church of Saint Lawrence (a Baroque church but with origins dating to the 12th century) and a few chapels and then to the Petřín tower. There were also a Mirror Maze and rose garden in the vicinity but I did not go to either.  

Calvary Chapel, 18th century. The facade is supposed to be sgrafitto decoration by famous Czech artist Mikoláš Aleš.

Petřín tower and, 18th century Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre (modelled after a chapel in Jerusalem)

View of the Petřínská rozhledna (Petřín lookout tower) and part of Hunger Wall

Petřín (lookout) tower often termed the mini Eiffel Tower, was built in 1891 for an exhibition. This metal structure rises 63.5 metres and has several platforms that provide great views of the city. To get to the high platform, either climb the more than 220 stairs or use the elevator.

Next stop - Strahovský klášter (Strahov Monastery) whose theological and philosophical halls (libraries) I visited on day 2 of my tour in Praha. This time however, we whizzed straight to the back segment of the monastery where there is a small area with a great view of Little Quarter and parts of the Vltava and Old Town.  

Second of only 2 non-selfies of yours truly. Trying to balance while posing on a Segway 

View of buildings on Úvoz street, Saint Vitus Cathedral and the Vltava

View of rooftops of Little Quarter and parts of Old Town, from an area between Strahov Monastery and Vlašská street

From Strahov Monastery, we made our way down Vlašská and Tržiště streets, taking a brief detour to Nerudova before returning to the Prague Segway Tours office at Maltézské náměstí. Overall, a wonderful experience on a Segway and very happy to have seen the wooden church and just to enjoy the greenery on Petřín hill. My next ride on a Segway should be in mid-autumn season also on Petřín with vibrant red and yellow leaves everywhere. 

There are 3 to 4 well regarded eateries at Maltézské náměstí (Maltese square) and I decided to have a meal at one of them - Konírna, which is right in front of the Baroque type group of statues (with Saint John the Baptist) built after the plague in the early 18th century. You can choose to eat indoors or outside.

I had wanted to try a traditional Czech tripe soup but as the restaurant did not offer this soup on that day, I went for another tripe dish, one seasoned and cooked in herbs. I should have known from the price (well not that pricey at 125 Czk) that this would be a large dish, but I did not give it a thought and also ordered a main of wild boar cutlets with gingerbread dumplings AND dessert of cake with ice cream! While the tripe did not taste odd, was in fact quite tasty, the plate was so large it was not so easy getting it all down - and I still had the main and dessert to go. To avoid wasted food, I took the liberty to wrap 3 of the (very delicious) gingerbread dumplings and slipped them in the camera case, to be consumed later.  

Large plate of herbed and seasoned tripe

Wild boar cutlets with gingerbread dumplings

Overstuffed, I took a slow walk back to the hotel and waited till evening before venturing out again.

Bedřich Smetana Museum, view from Charles Bridge

First stop in Old Town was a store, café rather, that also sold their own brand of chocolates. Grabbed one each of a variety of flavours and bars made of different cocoa beans from various continents. The cafe interior was not very large, cosy and tastefully decorated and, was filled with people. However, I never ordered any food or drink from the menu - just stopped by for the chocolates. Many reviewers at Tripadvisor have raved about the variety of hot chocolate, dessert and other food sold here. The café is also known as U Červené židle (at the Red Chair).

Choco Café at one end of Liliová Street 

From Choco Café it was just a 3 minute walk along Liliová and a left turn into Bethlehem square to the Bethlehem Chapel. Bethlehem Chapel is invariably linked to the Czech religious reformer Jan Hus, who was there from 1402 for about 8 to 10 years. What is seen today is mostly a reconstruction, but following the original design. More information can be found on Bethlehem Chapel from various websites including here.

Betlémská kaple (Bethlehem Chapel)

Bethlehem square

Two streets connect the western side of Bethlehem square, Náprstkova and Betlémská. I choose the latter and headed towards the Vltava.

Returned to Kranner's fountain, which I had last seen more than 2 weeks prior at night. It is located in a small park along Smetanovo nábřeží (Smetana embankment) and, not far from the National Theatre. Made in a neo-Gothic style, the fountain was constructed in the mid-19th century as a show of power by the Austro-Hungarian empire over the country. Post independence in 1919, the equestrian statue of the Habsburg emperor Franz Joseph I (which was part of the fountain) was removed and placed in the Lapidarium (which I saw on Day 15 of the tour). The one seen today is a replica. The 16 lower statues on the fountain are allegories of the regions in the country and a 17th and seated, represents Praha. Those statues on level with the equestrian statue symbolise the activities that were key in the development of the country. 

Kranner's fountain

 

Another view of the Smetana Museum

Smetanovo nábřeží

At about 6pm, I entered the Old Town Bridge Tower (entry fee 75 Czk) for a great aerial view of Charles Bridge, the Vltava, Clementinum and across to the Little Quarter. The ascent was a bit strenuous with 130 plus steps to climb but worth the effort.

 

View of Charles Bridge and Malá Strana (Little Quarter)

Stands all along Charles Bridge selling paintings, beads and souvenirs. Wonder if they make money at all

The top down view of the area behind the Charles IV monument was not so flattering - a bit too much litter and other waste (probably courtesy of some drunks)

Křižovnické náměstí (Knights of the Cross square)

An hour later, I was out of the tower and walking along Charles Bridge back to the lodgings.

This marks the spot from which Saint John Nepomuk was thrown off Charles Bridge in 1393

Also did a bit of night shopping at some stores and the mini market in Mostecká (Bridge) street. There is a Manufaktura outlet on the street that sells a variety of 100% Czech made products - cosmetics, scented candles, wooden toys, gingerbread (from centuries-old moulds), accessories, souvenirs, and other products. 

A few items bought from Manufaktura ...

Gingerbread

Krtek the Mole fridge magnets and others

Night view of the Little Quarter Bridge Tower(s), from Dražického náměstí

 



NEXT: Day 19, trip outside Praha to two Moravian towns