Friday 7 August 2015

PRAGUE CHURCHES: NEW TOWN



We continue looking at several interesting and beautiful churches located in the centre of Prague. Eight churches in Old Town and three rotundas had been highlighted in Prague Churches: Part I. Several New Town churches are highlighted in this post and more churches located in other areas in Prague are in Part III.   





CHURCHES IN NEW TOWN
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Church of Our Lady of the Snows (Kostel Panny Marie Sněžné)
Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV founded this church the day after his 2 September 1347 coronation as king of Bohemia. The original plans were to build a Gothic church (which was to be 110 metres in length, with a 40 metre high vault and twin towers) to rival even the Cathedral of St. Vitus and to serve as church for the coronation of kings. These grandiose plans however never came to fruition as the Hussite Wars broke out in the 15th century, even badly damaging the tower in the north. About 1604, the Franciscans received the church, which had been left in ruins, as a gift from Emperor Rudolf II. From here on, repairs to the church in the Renaissance style were carried out and finished in 1625. An early Baroque 29 metre high pillared main altar was installed in 1651 and in the same decade, the remaining buildings that make up the church structure we see today were added. In 1900, a mosaic of Our Lady of the Snows was installed above the church's main entrance. In the north section are ruins of the destroyed north tower, a replica of a Gothic tympanum and, if you peek beyond the ruin, people can be seen having a drink in the beer garden right next to the church. Had the original plans been executed, the church would today span all of the Jungmann Square, which faces National Avenue and Adria Palace, and visible from ground level. As it is now, the church is well hidden and easily bypassed if one is not looking for it. It is today a Catholic church. 

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Cathedral Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius (Katedrální Chrám Sv. Cyrila a Metoděje)
The church in its present incarnation was built from 1730 to 1740, one of the architects being the well known Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer. Prior to that, was an earlier church and it has been said that St. Methodius dedicated an even earlier chapel at the same location. A mere 43 years after the rebuilding in 1740, the church was closed due to Joseph II's purges. It was reopened in the 1930s as a Greek Orthodox church, and still is today. However, what makes this church well known to outsiders and important to the Czechs was the event at the church in 1942 - when 3 parachutists and 4 partisans made this their last stand, pursued by the German army for their involvement in the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich. The church officials who hid the partisans also paid with their lives. There is a memorial to the 7 and an exhibition on the event and it is possible to visit the crypt where the partisans hid.

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Church of St. Ignatius (Kostel Sv. Ignáce)
Located on Charles Square, the church was built in the second half of the 17th century for the Jesuits and dedicated to the founder of the Order, St Ignatius of Loyola. If the facade of the church looks familiar, it is because the architect was Carlo Lurago, who also designed the Church of St. Salvator which is prominently located near Charles Bridge. It is another gem of early Baroque in Prague and possibly one of the largest Jesuit complexes in Europe. The front facade is notable for its statues of various saints and at the top on the tympanum is the statue of St. Ignatius with an aureole (larger than the one of Jesus in the interior). The statues were by sculptor Matěj Václav Jäckel, three of whose other works are found on Charles Bridge (one is the statues of St Anne with a young Virgin Mary). The adjoining building is a former Jesuit dormitory, now a teaching hospital. Church service are still held here.
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Church of St. John of Nepomuk On The Rock (Kostel Sv. Jana Nepomuckého Na Skalce)

Slightly off the southern end of Charles Square is this small but unique Baroque church. Designed by Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer and built in the 1730s, the church is highly distinctive in that its towers are tilted toward one another and the church nave is octagonal in shape. The double staircase was added later in the 1780s. The interior is decorated in the Rococo style and there is a gilded statue, created by sculptor Jan Brokoff  in 1682, which was the model for the bronze statue of St. John of Nepomuk currently standing on Charles Bridge. No centuries of dramatic or tragic events here - just a beautiful, unique and compact church. Open for services only.

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Emmaus Monastery (Emauzský Klášter) 
Right across the street from Church of St. John of Nepomuk on the Rock is a monastery (and church) founded by Charles IV in 1347. It was to be a Benedictine order using Slavonic liturgy, to unify Slavic people and as a means to bridge schisms between Western and Eastern European churches. To serve this function, a group of monks were brought in from an area in present day Croatia. Charles IV donated to the monastery the Reims Gospel, a text in Glagolitic alphabet and Cyrillic and said to be written in part by St. Procopius. It soon became a centre of learning and art. The future reformist preacher Jan Hus was a student here. The Hussites took over in 1419 with the monastery becoming ultraquist and remained so until late 16th century. In the 17th to 20th centuries, it was back to the Catholic denomination until the Communists used it as a science academy. There used to be two towers but these were destroyed by Allied bombing in 1945 - their replacement made in the 1960s are the distinctive cross spires seen today. Within the monastery, are a series of Gothic murals depicting Biblical themes. There used to be 85 of these murals but some have been destroyed or become faded or blurred.

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Church of St. Stephen (Kostel Sv. Štepána)
Photo source: www.waymarking. com
Founded by Charles IV in the mid 14th century, it was to be the second most important church in New Town. By the early 1400s, the church was largely completed. It received a major makeover in the 1870s, designed by Josef Mocker. The tower has a Gothic high-tent roof with spires at the top and on the corners, a design by Josef Mocker - which is a similar roof redesign made on the Powder Tower in Old Town and on the two bridge towers flanking Charles Bridge. Within the church are numerous Baroque era paintings and a valuable Renaissance era painting of St. Stephen, Virgin Mary and Jesus. Some curiosities include: Czech composer Bedřich Smetana was married at the church and the renown sculptor of Baroque statuary, Matyáš Bernard Braun was buried there (although the coffin could not be found). The Rotunda of St. Longinus is just nearby. 
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Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and St. Charles the Great (Charlemagne) in Karlov
(Kostel Nanebevzetí Panny Marie a Sv. Karla Velikého na Karlově)
Another church founded by Charles IV, in 1350 as part of an Augustinian monastery. The church was modeled after the final resting place of Charlemagne, the chapel at Aachen Cathedral in Germany. One of the intentions for building this and other grand churches and buildings was to elevate Prague's status to another level, it being the capital of the Holy Roman Empire at the time. The original structure was Gothic and construction was completed in the late Renaissance period. The marvelous cross-rib vaulting in the central hexagonal nave forms a symmetrical star pattern and was completed in 1575. In the 17th and 18th centuries, additions and reconstructions were made, turning it into a predominantly Baroque style church. It is today part of the Catholic church. The former monastery building adjoining the church now houses a police museum. Tours of the church interior are available on Sunday afternoons. 
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Church of St. Apollinaire (Kostel Sv. Apolináře)

This church was established by Charles IV and built in the second half of the 14th century on Větrov hill in New Town. The originally Gothic church was rebuilt in Baroque style in the 17th to 18th centuries, and then in a purist Gothic style in the 19th century designed by Josef Mocker. There is a comprehensive write up on the church's history here. The church seems to be the intersection point of two lines joining four other churches (all built in the 14th century after the establishment of New Town) - to form a cross. It is possible this layout was ordered by Charles IV as blessing to his new town. Nearby is the Apollinaire maternity hospital, which acquired its name from the church - the hospital itself has a fascinating neo-Gothic, neo-Renaissance architecture.    
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