When one talks about Prague The City of Many Hundreds of Spires, one is really thinking of its historic centre, comprising Old Town (Staré Město), Little Quarter (Malá Strana), New Town (Nové Město), Prague Castle complex and the castle area (Hradčany). In terms of land area, these are but a fraction of the entire city. However, within this area is where many of the attractions lie.
Prague (Praha in Czech) is a unique city that has preserved many historic buildings built throughout the centuries. Hence, you will find a 700 year old Gothic structure right next to relatively young century old Art Nouveau building. Having been spared of widespread destruction during WWII, the city boasts of thousands of original architecture (of course with restorations and some upgrades).
It is one of Europe's most visited cities. In recent years, it has even made it into top 10 lists of the world's most popular tourist destinations. The perceived downside of this popularity - hordes of tourist crowds in warmer months making the place a nightmare to navigate. Is there truth to this perception? In my view it is just a little justified but not if you know how to get around the crowds.
I have been to Prague only once, on a leisurely tour for several weeks, and was besotted with the city (and also with a few others beyond Prague). Being neither a native, nor even European with relatively close proximity for frequent visits to the city, it would be presumptuous of me to suggest a 'best of' list for the city - but here goes anyway (with a bit of emphasis on history of a place).
A DAY OR TWO IN PRAGUE
For a first timer to the city, this would inevitably mean traversing the Royal Route of coronation of Bohemian kings of yore. The starting point would be Republic Square (Náměstí Republiky).
The Art Nouveau building with a large fresco and embellishments on the facade is called the Municipal House. It is built on the site of a medieval residence of Bohemian kings (Královský dvůr) which stopped being used as a royal residence for over 400 years but stood until 1903 where it was torn down to make may for the Municipal House, inaugurated in 1912. The interior of Municipal House is beautiful, contains a concert hall, multi-purpose rooms, a cafe, an upmarket restaurant and beer hall. If you have 45 minutes to spare, do take a guided tour of the interior to view exquisite wall and ceiling murals by celebrated Czech painter Alphonse Mucha, Mikoláš Aleš and others.
Next to Municipal House is a vastly different type of structure which dates back to the late Gothic era. The Powder Tower is one of the surviving 13 gates of entry into Prague's Old Town, specifically an important route from the East Bohemian town of Kutná Hora. Construction began in 1475 but took over 100 years to be properly built and even then, the tower has undergone changes and upgrades as recent as the 1990s. The name derives from its use as a storage for gunpowder in the 18th century and its present look is from a reconstruction in the late 19th century. For the healthy and able, try climbing (fee: 90 Czk) the 186 stairs to the observation deck - the view is worth it.
Following the route of the coronation procession, one would pass under the Powder Tower and walk along the almost 1/2 kilometre Celetná. Probably named after a type of bread commonly produced here centuries ago, it is undeniably one of the main tourist traps in the city, but if you look beyond the souvenir stores (many selling non-Czech related items) and perpetual crowds, there are interesting buildings and house signs to observe. One of the oldest streets in Prague, the earliest houses here were built in Romanesque or Gothic architecture but later changed to Baroque or Classicist style.
About 100 metres from Powder Tower, to your left (opposite the Hotel Barcelo Old Town) is building no.36, called the New Mint (Nová Mincovna) with 4 statues at the entrance to the arcade facing Celetná. Until the late 18th century, it was a royal mint but is today a district court. Prior to being a mint, it was the residence of Bohemian queens, conveniently near to the residence of the kings.
Opposite the New Mint is a brown relatively modern structure called At the Black Madonna (U Černé Matky Boží). Designed by Czech architect Josef Gočár and completed in 1912, it is a superb example of the Cubist style of architecture. Within are a cafe (Cubist style decor), an impressive Cubist style spiral staircase and a mini museum. Surprisingly, the few times I was in the cafe, there were very few tourists.
While walking along Celetná, do look above ground level for interesting house signs. Some of the interesting ones are house no.29 At the Golden Angel (U Zlatého Anděla) now Hotel Barcelo, no.21 At the Red Eagle (U Červeného Orla), no.13 Caretto-Millesimo Palace (Millesimovský Palác), no.10 At the White Peacock (U bílého páva) and my favourite, no.8 At the Black Sun (U Černého slunce).
The town square has been around for a millennia and is still a hub of activity, mostly visitors to the city. You can't dodge the tourist hordes here so join them! One of the main spectacles here is the 2 to 3 minute 'show' by the 605 year old Prague Astronomical Clock (Pražský Orloj) located on the tower of the Old Town Hall. This webpage has a concise history of the clock, its segments and historical figures associated with it. It is an absolute must to have stood in front of the clock during a show (every hour on the hour) if one is to have bragging rights on having visited Prague.
Architecturally, the square is a feast for the eyes. You have the Gothic Church of Our Lady Before Týn (Kostel Matky Boží před Týnem), the Baroque Church of St Nicholas, and numerous Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo style buildings. The monument to the Czech Protestant/Hussite priest Jan Hus, prominently placed on the square, is of early 20th century Art Nouveau design!
Interesting information on the Church of Our Lady Before Týn can be found here. I did not know the church had so many tombstones within - I will have to revisit Prague just for this, among other places!
Also interesting details here if you wish to enter the Old Town Hall and the underground exhibits. The view from the observation platform of the town hall's tower is very good, but do not go during peak tourist seasons from mid-morning to about 3 p.m. as that is asking to be caught in very long queues. For the curious, this is what the town hall looked like intact, in the early 1900s - it was quite an impressive building.
Other noteworthy buildings on the square are Kinský Palace, House at the Stone Bell (Dům u Kamenného Zvonu) next to it and on the south side, the very pretty row of houses to the right of the Church (as you face it). Architectural buffs may want to take note that the House at the Stone Bell, built in the 1300s, is one of the oldest structures in Prague and may have once been the living quarters of royalty, in particular Queen Elizabeth of Bohemia, mother of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV.
To the north of the square is the Church of St Nicholas, also worth a visit, and the start of one end of the city's luxury avenue called Pařížská. The street is lined on both sides by beautiful buildings. "Unfortunately", it is not easy to admire them as many are blocked by greenery. Never mind, shopping anyone?
Finally, about 15 steps to the left of the Astronomical clock is an overlooked (due to close proximity to the clock) and attractive Renaissance style building called House at the Minute (Dům u Minuty). The Sgrafitto facade shows various Hapsburg emperors among other characters. You will probably need an expert on Prague architecture/art to explain the other depictions on the building. Writer Franz Kafka used to lived here. At one corner is a statue of a lion from an earlier period when the house was called At the White Lion.
Small or Little Square
Small is correct but it is a triangular area rather than a square - small quibble. Located on the Royal Route next to the Old Town Square, this is a cosy area surrounded by buildings which date back to the late medieval times. Originally built in Romanesque or Gothic style, they were converted into Baroque or Classicist architecture. At one point, many of the building here were pharmacies.
If already saturated with architectural delights, one could enjoy a respite here while having coffee or a glass of pivo, while watching the crowds roll by. But wait, there is at least one building and one structure to view here.
The building is called Rott House (V.J.Rott is written on the facade) with a neo-Renaissance facade beautifully painted with floral motifs and allegorical characters involved in various crafts and agriculture. The paintings were designed by leading 19th century Czech artist Mikoláš Aleš. Rott House once belonged to the leading Czech ironmongers in Prague, the Rott family. There is also a legend associated with this building, that it was once occupied by three sisters who desired wealth but were instead cheated of what they had by the same foreigner, and all three died in poverty. Thus, the building's previous name, At the Three White Roses, and you can see roses painted on the gable of Rott House.
The ground floor of Rott House houses Hard Rock Cafe (as at mid 2015), so this is probably no quiet corner at night.
Right in the centre of Small Square is a fountain that is enclosed by a beautiful Renaissance era iron grill, apparently an original (with restorations of course) from 1560.
If interested in house signs, there are quite a few - a building with a golden crown and golden eagles (U Zlaté Koruny) and next door, a dark blue (black?) horse sign. With the house at the Golden Crown and Black Horse behind you and on your left, turn left (you can only turn left anyway) and you will be on Charles Street or Karlova, named after Bohemia's most famous and important monarch, Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV.
Charles Street
If you wish to still be on Karlova, don't just walk straight on. Karlova continues at a right turn just 3 buildings after exiting Small Square. Continue along this section of Karlova (relatively uninteresting compared to elsewhere) until the end where, on the corner to your right will be Cafe Per Lei with wood paneling at ground level with a sultry female figure engraved on the paneling. Turn right here and immediately left to continue being on Karlova.
Before making that last left turn, you will be on the street Husova. At this intersection of Husova and Karlova is the Clam-Gallas Palace (Clam-Gallasův Palác) which you will recognise by the 2 pairs of huge statues adorning the entrance to the building. These statues were created by Matthias B. Braun, prominent sculptor of Baroque style statuary (among his works is the Vision of St Luthgard on Charles Bridge).
Clam-Gallas Palace is a beautiful Baroque building and easy to miss if one is too engrossed in simply getting from the Old Town Square to Charles Bridge. Built in the first quarter of the 1700s it has a central courtyard, this staircase, grand marble hall, and overall beautiful interior (so it is said). The owners held grand balls, with Mozart and Beethoven being a few of the most prominent invitees. It now holds Baroque and classical music performances. I regret not catching a music performance here with a chance to view the interior and this gives me yet another reason to return to Prague.
The remaining sections of Karlova heading to Charles Bridge do not a pleasant stroll make as they are teeming with visitors from around 9:30 am until late, during peak tourist season. However, there are numerous noteworthy buildings here to view.
Two of the prominent ones are At the Golden Well (U Zlaté Studně) and At the Blue Pike (U Modré štiky). The former has a prominent position with its interesting facade facing the intersection of Karlova and another street. At the Blue Pike is the location of Prague's first cinema, Bio Ponrepo, which opened in September 1907.
Incidentally, the second largest complex of buildings in Prague, the Clementinum, has one side along this section of Karlova up to the square leading to Charles Bridge. There are three sections of the Clementinum worth visiting - the Astronomical Tower, Hall of Mirrors and Baroque Library. Personally, I would consider the Clementinum an essential visit for the aforementioned sections and, the view from the tower is magnificent.
This is the most famous bridge in the Czech Republic and perhaps one of the most well known worldwide. The bridge connects Prague's Old Town and Little Quarter.
It was commissioned by Charles IV as a replacement of an earlier bridge called Judith bridge which was swept away by the river. Acting on advice from his royal astrologers and numerologists, Charles IV ordered the first stone to be laid in 1357, 9 July at 5:31, thus giving the palindromic sequence of 1-3-5-7-9-7-5-3-1. Definitely sound advice as the bridge has held steady for over 655 years and is one of the structures that attracts visitors to Prague.
Before crossing the bridge, there are numerous structures and a monument to view. There's the monument to Charles IV, the Old Town Bridge Tower and Church of St Salvator (the church is part of the Clementinum). They are all located on the Square of the Knights of the Cross (Křižovnické Náměstí).
The Charles IV monument was made in 1848 on the 500th anniversary of the founding of Charles University in Prague. The bridge tower (Staroměstská Mostecká Věž) was built around the time of Charles Bridge for purposes of fortification of Old Town and as a mark of prestige of the Bohemian kings. It is adorned with numerous statues on the side facing the square - Charles IV (left most) is there as are St. Adalbert and St. Vitus. It is obvious from the stark contrast in colours of the statues and the tower, that the former is relatively new. The originals are stored in the Lapidary. 138 steps up the tower is all it takes to get to the platform for great aerial views.
From mid morning till sunset, the bridge is a hub of activity. There are artists, trad jazz bands, people selling handcrafts and souvenirs and of course the hordes of tourists. If you have a longer stay in Prague, drop by here early, before 8am, and you will have the bridge largely to yourself even in peak visitor season. The night views are also wonderful.
A defining feature of Charles Bridge is its 30 groups of Baroque statues. Here is a convenient summary of them all. Some of these statuary are very fine replicas and not the originals. The originals are stored in various locations such as the Lapidary (6 on display) and underground hall/gorlice in Vyšehrad, for preservation.
At approximately midway along the bridge is this statue of St John of Nepomuk with three bronze panels at the base. There is a golden shine on sections of the left and right panels due to the caresses of millions of fingers. Why do people do this? It is said that rubbing one of the panels will bring good luck and that you will return to Prague. Which panel? The one on the right and do rub only the smallish figure being thrown off the bridge, not the woman and her child. It is unknown if there is any significance to rubbing the left panel (with the dog) - some say it could even bring bad luck... I rubbed both panels for the heck of it.
The bridge is flanked on both sides by three towers. The Old Town Bridge Tower and on the opposite in Little Quarter, the Little Quarter Bridge Tower (Malostranská Mostecká Věž) and next to it a shorter Judith Tower (Juditina Věž). Judith Tower was built even before the destroyed Judith Bridge but its current form is from modifications made centuries later. The taller tower was constructed in the latter half of the 15th century in the image of the Old Town Bridge Tower. You can enter this, for the standard 90 Czk fee, but probably not the Judith Tower.
Passing under the towers, you will be in Little Quarter proper. Little Quarter or Malá Strana comprises the area beneath Prague castle, the eastern slopes of Petřín to the left bank of the Vltava past Legions Bridge (until the end of Újezd street) and, includes Kampa Island.
Next stop is one of the most impressive churches in Prague, Church of St Nicholas (Kostel sv. Mikuláše) in Little Quarter.
From the two towers, continue along the Royal Route by walking the full length of Bridge street (Mostecká). The positive aspect of Bridge street is that it has numerous buildings with pretty facades and interesting house signs, so do look up. However, like Celetná and Charles street, the street has souvenir shops, somewhat overpriced cafes and restaurants and is crowded. There's a Vacek mini-market at no.3 (on the left side coming from the towers) - you may just find some sweet and savouries unique to the Czech Republic here.
From Bridge Street, the dome and belfry of the Church of St Nicholas are visible. Thus, just keep walking straight until you are at the church. It is located on a square, the Little Quarter Square (Malostranské Náměstí) which is divided into a lower and upper segment.
About 50 metres from Bridge street, is an entrance to the church. This is for access to the belfry where you can savour magnificent views of the surrounding areas in any direction - Prague Castle, Petřín, Charles Bridge to Old Town, Letná park, along the Vltava to the south etc.
The church interior is ornate and the main nave has many life-sized statues of saints and even a few sovereigns. These statues were certainly designed to overwhelm and awe churchgoers. There are also elaborate frescoes on the ceilings. In the loft is a grand organ constructed in the mid 1700s. It is said Mozart would play this organ while in Prague.
Incidentally, the main entrance to the church is further up from the entrance to the belfry, i.e. faces the upper section of Little Quarter Square. I got to see the interior by attending an hour long music performance of mostly Baroque music.
In the upper section of the square, you will also see the Holy Trinity Column in the centre and, these curious looking blue metal things - Cubist-style bollards, each with a different 'face'.
As with the procession of the coronation of kings, we will move on from the Little Quarter Square to a fairly steep street called Nerudova.
This street was previously called Ostruhová (translates to 'spur', perhaps to do with horses?) but was changed in 1895 in honour of one of the most well regarded (at least by locals anyway) Czech writers and poets called Jan Neruda. He had lived in various buildings here.
His best known literary work is the collection of 13 short stories called Prague Tales/Tales of the Little Quarter (Povídky Malostranské), which has been translated to English. He also wrote many feuilleton/articles on social and cultural issues for Prague dailies during his time.
It is curious that internationally, there is hardly a mention of this Czech writer when promoting Prague as a tour destination. I suppose it has to do with one of his controversial views...
There are marvellous buildings lining both sides of the street. The buildings were originally Gothic but subsequently reconstructed as Baroque to Classicist with perhaps some hints of the Renaissance on a few. There are even a few former palaces of various aristocratic families located here. Today, the buildings house boutique hotels, cafes, restaurants, book stores and souvenir stores.
This is hands down my favourite street in Prague and the reason - many buildings have a distinctive and attractive house sign and/or statues. A real feast for the eyes. I have blogged on this elsewhere, do take a look. For visitors with children, looking out for these house signs could be a great way to keep the little ones occupied.
Anyway, here are a few of my favourites signs, the one with the two suns is where Jan Neruda spent much of his youth. It is located almost at the upper end of Nerudova.
We are now close to the castle. However, even during the very last coronation procession in 1836, there was no route linking Nerudova directly to the castle district. Thus, the coronation procession had to take a longer journey via an even steeper street linked to Nerudova called Úvoz, followed by a U-shaped route along the street Pohořelec and finally all along the street Loretánská before they could get to the castle district (Hradčany) and then the castle.
Úvoz is yet another historic street with wonderful house signs (although not as many as Nerudova), has far fewer visitors and worth a detour if you have the time. I did not pass Pohořelec - it is said to have numerous interesting buildings, house signs and statues. If looking to buy toys for small children or a Czech momento for your own souvenir cabinet, drop by the Rocking Horse Toy Shop on Loretánská - it has locally made toys and friendly proprietors. There is also the beautiful Loreta Church nearby which could be on an 'essential Prague' list. All in, perhaps worth the while to follow exactly the Royal Route.
If pressed for time however, from Nerudova, use the road Ke Hradu which will lead you to the square in the Castle District (Hradčanské Náměstí) and just in front of the entrance to the castle. Opposite Ke Hradu is a staired passageway called Radnické Schody which offers sanctuary from the crowds. Drop by at a cafe here to take a breather. The passageway is also a short cut to the Castle District.
Before Prague Castle, we pass through the Castle District square with its various palaces. The most attractive of these would be the Schwanzenberg Palace (Renaissance building with Sgraffito facade and is now an art gallery), the Archbishop's Palace (Rococo facade, at left next to the castle) and Tuscany Palace (Baroque building at Western end of the square). There is also this 8-branched gas lamp. It seems there used to be 11 of them in Prague, many located on Wenceslas Square, but only 2 remain.
I regret giving short shrift to the magnificent castle complex during my tour and for some reason (inertia) never brought myself to spending at least half a day there. There is much information on the castle from various websites so I will quickly summarise.
Historical texts indicate construction work on the castle commenced in the year 870 under the first documented Bohemian Duke/Prince Bořivoj I (grandfather of St. Wenceslas), who could be considered founder of the first Czech royal dynasty the Přemyslids.
The castle went through periods of construction followed by periods of neglect (e.g. when the seat of power of Bohemian kings was transferred to Vyšehrad). One of the most significant periods was when Charles IV was sovereign and had the castle rebuilt and further fortified. This was also the time when the St. Vitus Cathedral obtained its Gothic architecture, designed by the master builder Petr Parléř (also the designer of Charles Bridge and the Old Town Bridge Tower).
The Hapsburgs further added to the grandeur of the castle during their reign in the 16th to 19th centuries. Construction works continued even into the 20th century after the Czechs had gained independence. Which is why when you look at the castle complex, you will find such a diverse range of architecture from Romanesque to neo-Classical. In the Cathedral, you will even find Art Nouveau stained glass panels in a Gothic structure!
The essential areas of the Castle to visit are St. Vitus Cathedral, St George's Basilica, Golden Lane, the Summer Palace/Belvedere and perhaps a stroll in one of the gardens. Art lovers will also want to visit the Picture Gallery in the Second Courtyard.
Thus completes the Royal Route.
I would be remiss to cover only the Castle, Old Town and Little Quarter in this 'best of' places to visit in Prague. Thus, will squeeze in two from the other key section of Prague's historic centre - New Town (Nové Město).
National Avenue is one of the main streets in Prague and delineates the boundary between Old Town and New Town. There are numerous places of interest here including theatres, cafes and a fantastic deli. Prior to the current name, it was called Ferdinandova.
It is also the place where Czechs have in the past, gathered to make political protests, such as just prior to the Velvet Revolution in 1989 and more recently against the incumbent president.
A recent (late 2014) prominent addition was placed on the avenue - a shape-shifting metallic mechanical bust of Franz Kafka, designed by the artist David Černý (Creator of the pissing statues, Saint Wenceslas on an inverted horse and other statues, all located in Prague).
How best to get to the Avenue. If retracing your steps from the castle back to Old Town Bridge Tower - near the traffic lights on the square, take a right turn into the passage (there should be a sign 'Museum of Medieval Torture' :)) through the shops. Once out of the shops, you will be on Smetana Embankment (Smetanovo Nábřeží). From here it is a very pleasant walk with views of the Vltava.
About 200 metres along the Smetana Embankment, if you look across the street, located in a mini park is a neo-Gothic structure about 30 feet high called Kranner's Fountain (Krannerova Kašna) built in the mid 1800s. It is a functional fountain and a neat piece of statuary with 16 allegorical statues of Czech regions (all standing) and one of Prague (seated) that faces the Vltava. The equestrian statue of Hapsburg emperor Franz Joseph I right in the centre, is an indication that the fountain was built as a symbol of supremacy of the Hapsburgs. After independence in 1919 this equestrian statue was removed (now displayed in the Lapidary) but in the new millenia, a replica was made and put back in. The fountain is absolutely beautiful illuminated at night.
Just another 100 metres from the fountain and you will have reached Národní.
The first structure to strike you is the majestic neo-Renaissance National Theatre (Národní Divadlo) with a gilded roof. The theatre was really a part of the Czech nationalist and independence movement of the 1800s. In 1850, a donation project was started to obtain financial contributions for the construction of a theater that featured Czech performances. Donors were from all walks of life, from prominent figures to factory workers. Completed in 1881, the theater opened with a performance of Czech composer Bedřich Smetana's Libuše. It was gutted by fire almost immediately after inauguration but rebuilt shortly, funded again by donations. The best way to view the interior is by watching an opera or ballet performance. Ticket prices must be significantly less than in other (Western) European cities for similar quality performances.
Right next to the National Theatre is a vastly different looking building made of steel and glass blocks, which to me looks like a structure out of a sci-fi movie. Completed in the early 1980s, it is really a part of the National Theatre and called the New Scene (Nová scéna), staging theatrical performances and the popular light show called Laterna Magika. For the latter, the building is also called the Laterna Magika.
Back to the Smetana embankment: The view here is fabulous and a walk about halfway along the Legion's bridge will provide good photo opportunities of the area including of the castle, Charles Bridge and Petřín hill across the river.
The other significant landmark is the corner cafe, Kavárna Slavia. Opened not long after the National Theatre, it has been the gathering place of intellectuals and artists. The first Czech president after the fall of Communism, Václav Havel, was a prominent patron here. Probably worth entering for the neat Art Deco interior and just the experience of being in an important place in modern Czech history.
Returning to the Laterna Magika building on Národní - two buildings from it is an early 18th century Baroque church, Church of St Ursulla (Kostel sv. Voršily). The interior is apparently quite impressive. I didn't notice it, but on one of the side niches of the facade facing the avenue is supposed to be a shocking statue of St Agartha holding a severed body part...
Next stop, Jan Paukert Lahůdky, a top notch deli which is approaching its first centennial (in 2016). Sells great value and tasty quiches, sandwiches and pastries - an excellent stop for breakfast or lunch. Highly recommend it! Update: The shop on the avenue was closed after May 2015 and it has been reopened in the suburb of Karlin.
If you can find it, in the arcade of one of the buildings (could be the Baroque building no 16) on the opposite side of where Jan Paukert used to be , there is a bronze memorial plaque of a cluster of hands, a memorial to the Velvet Revolution of 1989 (17.11.1989).
Three doors away at no.22 is the over a century old Café Louvre, one of the highly recommended cafés in the city which has a fabulous interior and good food and drinks. I tried to dine here a few times just before noon but was deterred as the place was packed! Probably best to try getting in soon after opening hours or make a reservation. There are also billiard and pool tables on the upper floor.
From Café Louvre to the end of National Avenue are modern buildings housing 'regular' shops and you will have temporarily left the fairy tale like setting of Prague central. Not for long though as at the end of the avenue intersecting with the street Jungmannova is a gem of a building called the Adria Palace, a 1920s building with a Rondo-Cubist facade. The top level comprises tower-like structures and the entire facade is a series of angular and circular shapes - this latter is the Rondo-Cubist aspect, which is unique to the Czech Republic. The Laterna Magika theatre had its origins here. From descriptions, the interior is certainly well worth a look.
We now head to the final 'essential' place to visit in Prague, Wenceslas Square (Václavské Náměstí), which is just around the corner.
From Adria Palace, enter the pedestrian only street 28 October (28. října) and 100 metres later to the right, is already Wenceslas Square, a boulevard really. It is is named after the patron saint of Czechs/Czech lands, the duke Wenceslas I (who received title of king and sainthood soon after his death) of the powerful Bohemian Přemyslid dynasty. The square measures 750 metres in length and could easily accommodated a quarter of a million people.
Created around the time of the establishment of New Town in 1348 during the reign of the farsighted sovereign Charles IV, the square was used for dealing in agricultural produce and trading of horses. Hence, the original name of Horse Market (Koňský trhu). It is interesting to note that another, larger square in New Town, the Charles Square (Karlovo Náměstí) was created at the same time with cattle being traded there. Both squares were and still are directly linked by the busy street Vodičkova.
Wenceslas Square has been the venue of many political events especially since the 19th century national revival movement to re-establish Czech culture, language and national identity. At the time, there was already a Baroque type equestrian statue of Saint Wenceslas on the square near where the street Jindřiška is. Members of this movement would gather around the statue to discuss various matters and one of this was to give the square a more respectable name. On the continued urgings of one of the members, a writer and poet Karel Havlíček Borovský, the rulers decided to grant the name change, to the proposed St. Wenceslas Square in 1848.
Much has happened since then. The present day equestrian statue was put in its current position on the upper section of the square in 1912 (The Baroque one had been removed in 1879 and now displayed in the Lapidary). Declaration of independence of the Czechoslovak Republic was made in 1918 in front of the new statue, Soviet tanks rolled into the square in 1968 followed by Jan Palach's self-immolation in protest of the Soviet invasion, the tramline running through the square was removed in 1980, there were large scale demonstrations in 1989 just prior to the the Velvet Revolution.
In terms of architecture and buildings, the square is dominated at the upper end by the National Museum (Národní Muzeum) which is presently closed for repairs and upgrades until 2018. It was opened in 1890 during the national revival movement, same period as the National Theatre.
Along the length of the square are buildings with different architectural styles predominantly 19th to mid 20th century. These house banks, book stores, cafes, departmental stores, fashion shops, hotels, restaurants and theatres. The largest shoe store in Prague is on the square, i.e. the seven-storey Baťa building close to the street 28. října.
Two of the buildings (to the right as you look from the National Museum) with artistic facades are adjacent to each other, the Grand Hotel Evropa (no.25) and Hotel Meran (no.27). The former is Art Nouveau on the exterior and within. Hotel Zlata Husa (Golden Goose Hotel, no.7) is a late Art Nouveau building. On the opposite side, a corner unit dubbed Ice Palace (no.40), is an Art Deco building with Art Nouveau elements and has a domed tower (Starbucks occupies a part of the ground level). Hotel Adria (no.26) is in one of the oldest buildings on the square and the basement Restaurant Triton has unique cave-like decor. These are just a few of the interesting buildings on the square.
A final thought, a comparison really. Which of the equestrian statues do you prefer - the newer 1912 model or the 17th century Baroque one ...
It is one of Europe's most visited cities. In recent years, it has even made it into top 10 lists of the world's most popular tourist destinations. The perceived downside of this popularity - hordes of tourist crowds in warmer months making the place a nightmare to navigate. Is there truth to this perception? In my view it is just a little justified but not if you know how to get around the crowds.
I have been to Prague only once, on a leisurely tour for several weeks, and was besotted with the city (and also with a few others beyond Prague). Being neither a native, nor even European with relatively close proximity for frequent visits to the city, it would be presumptuous of me to suggest a 'best of' list for the city - but here goes anyway (with a bit of emphasis on history of a place).
A DAY OR TWO IN PRAGUE
For a first timer to the city, this would inevitably mean traversing the Royal Route of coronation of Bohemian kings of yore. The starting point would be Republic Square (Náměstí Republiky).
The Art Nouveau building with a large fresco and embellishments on the facade is called the Municipal House. It is built on the site of a medieval residence of Bohemian kings (Královský dvůr) which stopped being used as a royal residence for over 400 years but stood until 1903 where it was torn down to make may for the Municipal House, inaugurated in 1912. The interior of Municipal House is beautiful, contains a concert hall, multi-purpose rooms, a cafe, an upmarket restaurant and beer hall. If you have 45 minutes to spare, do take a guided tour of the interior to view exquisite wall and ceiling murals by celebrated Czech painter Alphonse Mucha, Mikoláš Aleš and others.
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| View from Prašná brána |
Following the route of the coronation procession, one would pass under the Powder Tower and walk along the almost 1/2 kilometre Celetná. Probably named after a type of bread commonly produced here centuries ago, it is undeniably one of the main tourist traps in the city, but if you look beyond the souvenir stores (many selling non-Czech related items) and perpetual crowds, there are interesting buildings and house signs to observe. One of the oldest streets in Prague, the earliest houses here were built in Romanesque or Gothic architecture but later changed to Baroque or Classicist style.
About 100 metres from Powder Tower, to your left (opposite the Hotel Barcelo Old Town) is building no.36, called the New Mint (Nová Mincovna) with 4 statues at the entrance to the arcade facing Celetná. Until the late 18th century, it was a royal mint but is today a district court. Prior to being a mint, it was the residence of Bohemian queens, conveniently near to the residence of the kings.
While walking along Celetná, do look above ground level for interesting house signs. Some of the interesting ones are house no.29 At the Golden Angel (U Zlatého Anděla) now Hotel Barcelo, no.21 At the Red Eagle (U Červeného Orla), no.13 Caretto-Millesimo Palace (Millesimovský Palác), no.10 At the White Peacock (U bílého páva) and my favourite, no.8 At the Black Sun (U Černého slunce). The town square has been around for a millennia and is still a hub of activity, mostly visitors to the city. You can't dodge the tourist hordes here so join them! One of the main spectacles here is the 2 to 3 minute 'show' by the 605 year old Prague Astronomical Clock (Pražský Orloj) located on the tower of the Old Town Hall. This webpage has a concise history of the clock, its segments and historical figures associated with it. It is an absolute must to have stood in front of the clock during a show (every hour on the hour) if one is to have bragging rights on having visited Prague.
Architecturally, the square is a feast for the eyes. You have the Gothic Church of Our Lady Before Týn (Kostel Matky Boží před Týnem), the Baroque Church of St Nicholas, and numerous Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo style buildings. The monument to the Czech Protestant/Hussite priest Jan Hus, prominently placed on the square, is of early 20th century Art Nouveau design!
Interesting information on the Church of Our Lady Before Týn can be found here. I did not know the church had so many tombstones within - I will have to revisit Prague just for this, among other places!
Also interesting details here if you wish to enter the Old Town Hall and the underground exhibits. The view from the observation platform of the town hall's tower is very good, but do not go during peak tourist seasons from mid-morning to about 3 p.m. as that is asking to be caught in very long queues. For the curious, this is what the town hall looked like intact, in the early 1900s - it was quite an impressive building.
Other noteworthy buildings on the square are Kinský Palace, House at the Stone Bell (Dům u Kamenného Zvonu) next to it and on the south side, the very pretty row of houses to the right of the Church (as you face it). Architectural buffs may want to take note that the House at the Stone Bell, built in the 1300s, is one of the oldest structures in Prague and may have once been the living quarters of royalty, in particular Queen Elizabeth of Bohemia, mother of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV.
To the north of the square is the Church of St Nicholas, also worth a visit, and the start of one end of the city's luxury avenue called Pařížská. The street is lined on both sides by beautiful buildings. "Unfortunately", it is not easy to admire them as many are blocked by greenery. Never mind, shopping anyone?
Finally, about 15 steps to the left of the Astronomical clock is an overlooked (due to close proximity to the clock) and attractive Renaissance style building called House at the Minute (Dům u Minuty). The Sgrafitto facade shows various Hapsburg emperors among other characters. You will probably need an expert on Prague architecture/art to explain the other depictions on the building. Writer Franz Kafka used to lived here. At one corner is a statue of a lion from an earlier period when the house was called At the White Lion. Small or Little Square
Small is correct but it is a triangular area rather than a square - small quibble. Located on the Royal Route next to the Old Town Square, this is a cosy area surrounded by buildings which date back to the late medieval times. Originally built in Romanesque or Gothic style, they were converted into Baroque or Classicist architecture. At one point, many of the building here were pharmacies.
If already saturated with architectural delights, one could enjoy a respite here while having coffee or a glass of pivo, while watching the crowds roll by. But wait, there is at least one building and one structure to view here.
The building is called Rott House (V.J.Rott is written on the facade) with a neo-Renaissance facade beautifully painted with floral motifs and allegorical characters involved in various crafts and agriculture. The paintings were designed by leading 19th century Czech artist Mikoláš Aleš. Rott House once belonged to the leading Czech ironmongers in Prague, the Rott family. There is also a legend associated with this building, that it was once occupied by three sisters who desired wealth but were instead cheated of what they had by the same foreigner, and all three died in poverty. Thus, the building's previous name, At the Three White Roses, and you can see roses painted on the gable of Rott House.
The ground floor of Rott House houses Hard Rock Cafe (as at mid 2015), so this is probably no quiet corner at night.
Right in the centre of Small Square is a fountain that is enclosed by a beautiful Renaissance era iron grill, apparently an original (with restorations of course) from 1560.
If interested in house signs, there are quite a few - a building with a golden crown and golden eagles (U Zlaté Koruny) and next door, a dark blue (black?) horse sign. With the house at the Golden Crown and Black Horse behind you and on your left, turn left (you can only turn left anyway) and you will be on Charles Street or Karlova, named after Bohemia's most famous and important monarch, Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV.
Charles Street
If you wish to still be on Karlova, don't just walk straight on. Karlova continues at a right turn just 3 buildings after exiting Small Square. Continue along this section of Karlova (relatively uninteresting compared to elsewhere) until the end where, on the corner to your right will be Cafe Per Lei with wood paneling at ground level with a sultry female figure engraved on the paneling. Turn right here and immediately left to continue being on Karlova.
Before making that last left turn, you will be on the street Husova. At this intersection of Husova and Karlova is the Clam-Gallas Palace (Clam-Gallasův Palác) which you will recognise by the 2 pairs of huge statues adorning the entrance to the building. These statues were created by Matthias B. Braun, prominent sculptor of Baroque style statuary (among his works is the Vision of St Luthgard on Charles Bridge). Clam-Gallas Palace is a beautiful Baroque building and easy to miss if one is too engrossed in simply getting from the Old Town Square to Charles Bridge. Built in the first quarter of the 1700s it has a central courtyard, this staircase, grand marble hall, and overall beautiful interior (so it is said). The owners held grand balls, with Mozart and Beethoven being a few of the most prominent invitees. It now holds Baroque and classical music performances. I regret not catching a music performance here with a chance to view the interior and this gives me yet another reason to return to Prague.
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| Busy Charles street |
The remaining sections of Karlova heading to Charles Bridge do not a pleasant stroll make as they are teeming with visitors from around 9:30 am until late, during peak tourist season. However, there are numerous noteworthy buildings here to view.
Two of the prominent ones are At the Golden Well (U Zlaté Studně) and At the Blue Pike (U Modré štiky). The former has a prominent position with its interesting facade facing the intersection of Karlova and another street. At the Blue Pike is the location of Prague's first cinema, Bio Ponrepo, which opened in September 1907.
Incidentally, the second largest complex of buildings in Prague, the Clementinum, has one side along this section of Karlova up to the square leading to Charles Bridge. There are three sections of the Clementinum worth visiting - the Astronomical Tower, Hall of Mirrors and Baroque Library. Personally, I would consider the Clementinum an essential visit for the aforementioned sections and, the view from the tower is magnificent.
It was commissioned by Charles IV as a replacement of an earlier bridge called Judith bridge which was swept away by the river. Acting on advice from his royal astrologers and numerologists, Charles IV ordered the first stone to be laid in 1357, 9 July at 5:31, thus giving the palindromic sequence of 1-3-5-7-9-7-5-3-1. Definitely sound advice as the bridge has held steady for over 655 years and is one of the structures that attracts visitors to Prague.
Before crossing the bridge, there are numerous structures and a monument to view. There's the monument to Charles IV, the Old Town Bridge Tower and Church of St Salvator (the church is part of the Clementinum). They are all located on the Square of the Knights of the Cross (Křižovnické Náměstí).
The Charles IV monument was made in 1848 on the 500th anniversary of the founding of Charles University in Prague. The bridge tower (Staroměstská Mostecká Věž) was built around the time of Charles Bridge for purposes of fortification of Old Town and as a mark of prestige of the Bohemian kings. It is adorned with numerous statues on the side facing the square - Charles IV (left most) is there as are St. Adalbert and St. Vitus. It is obvious from the stark contrast in colours of the statues and the tower, that the former is relatively new. The originals are stored in the Lapidary. 138 steps up the tower is all it takes to get to the platform for great aerial views.
From mid morning till sunset, the bridge is a hub of activity. There are artists, trad jazz bands, people selling handcrafts and souvenirs and of course the hordes of tourists. If you have a longer stay in Prague, drop by here early, before 8am, and you will have the bridge largely to yourself even in peak visitor season. The night views are also wonderful.
A defining feature of Charles Bridge is its 30 groups of Baroque statues. Here is a convenient summary of them all. Some of these statuary are very fine replicas and not the originals. The originals are stored in various locations such as the Lapidary (6 on display) and underground hall/gorlice in Vyšehrad, for preservation.
The bridge is flanked on both sides by three towers. The Old Town Bridge Tower and on the opposite in Little Quarter, the Little Quarter Bridge Tower (Malostranská Mostecká Věž) and next to it a shorter Judith Tower (Juditina Věž). Judith Tower was built even before the destroyed Judith Bridge but its current form is from modifications made centuries later. The taller tower was constructed in the latter half of the 15th century in the image of the Old Town Bridge Tower. You can enter this, for the standard 90 Czk fee, but probably not the Judith Tower. Passing under the towers, you will be in Little Quarter proper. Little Quarter or Malá Strana comprises the area beneath Prague castle, the eastern slopes of Petřín to the left bank of the Vltava past Legions Bridge (until the end of Újezd street) and, includes Kampa Island.
Next stop is one of the most impressive churches in Prague, Church of St Nicholas (Kostel sv. Mikuláše) in Little Quarter.
From the two towers, continue along the Royal Route by walking the full length of Bridge street (Mostecká). The positive aspect of Bridge street is that it has numerous buildings with pretty facades and interesting house signs, so do look up. However, like Celetná and Charles street, the street has souvenir shops, somewhat overpriced cafes and restaurants and is crowded. There's a Vacek mini-market at no.3 (on the left side coming from the towers) - you may just find some sweet and savouries unique to the Czech Republic here. From Bridge Street, the dome and belfry of the Church of St Nicholas are visible. Thus, just keep walking straight until you are at the church. It is located on a square, the Little Quarter Square (Malostranské Náměstí) which is divided into a lower and upper segment.
About 50 metres from Bridge street, is an entrance to the church. This is for access to the belfry where you can savour magnificent views of the surrounding areas in any direction - Prague Castle, Petřín, Charles Bridge to Old Town, Letná park, along the Vltava to the south etc.
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| View from the Church's belfry |
Just a quick word on Church of St Nicholas. The present church structure is the prime example of High Baroque in Prague. Work commenced in the 1670s but most of the construction was during the first half of the 1700s. The designs were by 3 generations of a famous family of Bohemian architects the Dientzenhofers - Kryštof and his son Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer and Kilián's son-in-law. Kilián Ignác designed many other buildings in Prague and beyond, including Kinský Palace and the other Church of St Nicholas in Old Town Square.
The church interior is ornate and the main nave has many life-sized statues of saints and even a few sovereigns. These statues were certainly designed to overwhelm and awe churchgoers. There are also elaborate frescoes on the ceilings. In the loft is a grand organ constructed in the mid 1700s. It is said Mozart would play this organ while in Prague.
Incidentally, the main entrance to the church is further up from the entrance to the belfry, i.e. faces the upper section of Little Quarter Square. I got to see the interior by attending an hour long music performance of mostly Baroque music.
In the upper section of the square, you will also see the Holy Trinity Column in the centre and, these curious looking blue metal things - Cubist-style bollards, each with a different 'face'.
As with the procession of the coronation of kings, we will move on from the Little Quarter Square to a fairly steep street called Nerudova.
This street was previously called Ostruhová (translates to 'spur', perhaps to do with horses?) but was changed in 1895 in honour of one of the most well regarded (at least by locals anyway) Czech writers and poets called Jan Neruda. He had lived in various buildings here.
His best known literary work is the collection of 13 short stories called Prague Tales/Tales of the Little Quarter (Povídky Malostranské), which has been translated to English. He also wrote many feuilleton/articles on social and cultural issues for Prague dailies during his time.
It is curious that internationally, there is hardly a mention of this Czech writer when promoting Prague as a tour destination. I suppose it has to do with one of his controversial views...
There are marvellous buildings lining both sides of the street. The buildings were originally Gothic but subsequently reconstructed as Baroque to Classicist with perhaps some hints of the Renaissance on a few. There are even a few former palaces of various aristocratic families located here. Today, the buildings house boutique hotels, cafes, restaurants, book stores and souvenir stores.
This is hands down my favourite street in Prague and the reason - many buildings have a distinctive and attractive house sign and/or statues. A real feast for the eyes. I have blogged on this elsewhere, do take a look. For visitors with children, looking out for these house signs could be a great way to keep the little ones occupied.
Anyway, here are a few of my favourites signs, the one with the two suns is where Jan Neruda spent much of his youth. It is located almost at the upper end of Nerudova.
We are now close to the castle. However, even during the very last coronation procession in 1836, there was no route linking Nerudova directly to the castle district. Thus, the coronation procession had to take a longer journey via an even steeper street linked to Nerudova called Úvoz, followed by a U-shaped route along the street Pohořelec and finally all along the street Loretánská before they could get to the castle district (Hradčany) and then the castle.
Úvoz is yet another historic street with wonderful house signs (although not as many as Nerudova), has far fewer visitors and worth a detour if you have the time. I did not pass Pohořelec - it is said to have numerous interesting buildings, house signs and statues. If looking to buy toys for small children or a Czech momento for your own souvenir cabinet, drop by the Rocking Horse Toy Shop on Loretánská - it has locally made toys and friendly proprietors. There is also the beautiful Loreta Church nearby which could be on an 'essential Prague' list. All in, perhaps worth the while to follow exactly the Royal Route.
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| From Radnické Schody looking toward Ke Hradu |
If pressed for time however, from Nerudova, use the road Ke Hradu which will lead you to the square in the Castle District (Hradčanské Náměstí) and just in front of the entrance to the castle. Opposite Ke Hradu is a staired passageway called Radnické Schody which offers sanctuary from the crowds. Drop by at a cafe here to take a breather. The passageway is also a short cut to the Castle District.
Before Prague Castle, we pass through the Castle District square with its various palaces. The most attractive of these would be the Schwanzenberg Palace (Renaissance building with Sgraffito facade and is now an art gallery), the Archbishop's Palace (Rococo facade, at left next to the castle) and Tuscany Palace (Baroque building at Western end of the square). There is also this 8-branched gas lamp. It seems there used to be 11 of them in Prague, many located on Wenceslas Square, but only 2 remain. I regret giving short shrift to the magnificent castle complex during my tour and for some reason (inertia) never brought myself to spending at least half a day there. There is much information on the castle from various websites so I will quickly summarise.
Historical texts indicate construction work on the castle commenced in the year 870 under the first documented Bohemian Duke/Prince Bořivoj I (grandfather of St. Wenceslas), who could be considered founder of the first Czech royal dynasty the Přemyslids.
The castle went through periods of construction followed by periods of neglect (e.g. when the seat of power of Bohemian kings was transferred to Vyšehrad). One of the most significant periods was when Charles IV was sovereign and had the castle rebuilt and further fortified. This was also the time when the St. Vitus Cathedral obtained its Gothic architecture, designed by the master builder Petr Parléř (also the designer of Charles Bridge and the Old Town Bridge Tower).
The Hapsburgs further added to the grandeur of the castle during their reign in the 16th to 19th centuries. Construction works continued even into the 20th century after the Czechs had gained independence. Which is why when you look at the castle complex, you will find such a diverse range of architecture from Romanesque to neo-Classical. In the Cathedral, you will even find Art Nouveau stained glass panels in a Gothic structure!
The essential areas of the Castle to visit are St. Vitus Cathedral, St George's Basilica, Golden Lane, the Summer Palace/Belvedere and perhaps a stroll in one of the gardens. Art lovers will also want to visit the Picture Gallery in the Second Courtyard.
Thus completes the Royal Route.
I would be remiss to cover only the Castle, Old Town and Little Quarter in this 'best of' places to visit in Prague. Thus, will squeeze in two from the other key section of Prague's historic centre - New Town (Nové Město).
National Avenue is one of the main streets in Prague and delineates the boundary between Old Town and New Town. There are numerous places of interest here including theatres, cafes and a fantastic deli. Prior to the current name, it was called Ferdinandova.
It is also the place where Czechs have in the past, gathered to make political protests, such as just prior to the Velvet Revolution in 1989 and more recently against the incumbent president.
A recent (late 2014) prominent addition was placed on the avenue - a shape-shifting metallic mechanical bust of Franz Kafka, designed by the artist David Černý (Creator of the pissing statues, Saint Wenceslas on an inverted horse and other statues, all located in Prague).
How best to get to the Avenue. If retracing your steps from the castle back to Old Town Bridge Tower - near the traffic lights on the square, take a right turn into the passage (there should be a sign 'Museum of Medieval Torture' :)) through the shops. Once out of the shops, you will be on Smetana Embankment (Smetanovo Nábřeží). From here it is a very pleasant walk with views of the Vltava.
About 200 metres along the Smetana Embankment, if you look across the street, located in a mini park is a neo-Gothic structure about 30 feet high called Kranner's Fountain (Krannerova Kašna) built in the mid 1800s. It is a functional fountain and a neat piece of statuary with 16 allegorical statues of Czech regions (all standing) and one of Prague (seated) that faces the Vltava. The equestrian statue of Hapsburg emperor Franz Joseph I right in the centre, is an indication that the fountain was built as a symbol of supremacy of the Hapsburgs. After independence in 1919 this equestrian statue was removed (now displayed in the Lapidary) but in the new millenia, a replica was made and put back in. The fountain is absolutely beautiful illuminated at night. Just another 100 metres from the fountain and you will have reached Národní.
The first structure to strike you is the majestic neo-Renaissance National Theatre (Národní Divadlo) with a gilded roof. The theatre was really a part of the Czech nationalist and independence movement of the 1800s. In 1850, a donation project was started to obtain financial contributions for the construction of a theater that featured Czech performances. Donors were from all walks of life, from prominent figures to factory workers. Completed in 1881, the theater opened with a performance of Czech composer Bedřich Smetana's Libuše. It was gutted by fire almost immediately after inauguration but rebuilt shortly, funded again by donations. The best way to view the interior is by watching an opera or ballet performance. Ticket prices must be significantly less than in other (Western) European cities for similar quality performances.
Right next to the National Theatre is a vastly different looking building made of steel and glass blocks, which to me looks like a structure out of a sci-fi movie. Completed in the early 1980s, it is really a part of the National Theatre and called the New Scene (Nová scéna), staging theatrical performances and the popular light show called Laterna Magika. For the latter, the building is also called the Laterna Magika.
Back to the Smetana embankment: The view here is fabulous and a walk about halfway along the Legion's bridge will provide good photo opportunities of the area including of the castle, Charles Bridge and Petřín hill across the river.
The other significant landmark is the corner cafe, Kavárna Slavia. Opened not long after the National Theatre, it has been the gathering place of intellectuals and artists. The first Czech president after the fall of Communism, Václav Havel, was a prominent patron here. Probably worth entering for the neat Art Deco interior and just the experience of being in an important place in modern Czech history. Returning to the Laterna Magika building on Národní - two buildings from it is an early 18th century Baroque church, Church of St Ursulla (Kostel sv. Voršily). The interior is apparently quite impressive. I didn't notice it, but on one of the side niches of the facade facing the avenue is supposed to be a shocking statue of St Agartha holding a severed body part...
Next stop, Jan Paukert Lahůdky, a top notch deli which is approaching its first centennial (in 2016). Sells great value and tasty quiches, sandwiches and pastries - an excellent stop for breakfast or lunch. Highly recommend it! Update: The shop on the avenue was closed after May 2015 and it has been reopened in the suburb of Karlin.
If you can find it, in the arcade of one of the buildings (could be the Baroque building no 16) on the opposite side of where Jan Paukert used to be , there is a bronze memorial plaque of a cluster of hands, a memorial to the Velvet Revolution of 1989 (17.11.1989).
Three doors away at no.22 is the over a century old Café Louvre, one of the highly recommended cafés in the city which has a fabulous interior and good food and drinks. I tried to dine here a few times just before noon but was deterred as the place was packed! Probably best to try getting in soon after opening hours or make a reservation. There are also billiard and pool tables on the upper floor.
From Café Louvre to the end of National Avenue are modern buildings housing 'regular' shops and you will have temporarily left the fairy tale like setting of Prague central. Not for long though as at the end of the avenue intersecting with the street Jungmannova is a gem of a building called the Adria Palace, a 1920s building with a Rondo-Cubist facade. The top level comprises tower-like structures and the entire facade is a series of angular and circular shapes - this latter is the Rondo-Cubist aspect, which is unique to the Czech Republic. The Laterna Magika theatre had its origins here. From descriptions, the interior is certainly well worth a look.
We now head to the final 'essential' place to visit in Prague, Wenceslas Square (Václavské Náměstí), which is just around the corner.
From Adria Palace, enter the pedestrian only street 28 October (28. října) and 100 metres later to the right, is already Wenceslas Square, a boulevard really. It is is named after the patron saint of Czechs/Czech lands, the duke Wenceslas I (who received title of king and sainthood soon after his death) of the powerful Bohemian Přemyslid dynasty. The square measures 750 metres in length and could easily accommodated a quarter of a million people.
Created around the time of the establishment of New Town in 1348 during the reign of the farsighted sovereign Charles IV, the square was used for dealing in agricultural produce and trading of horses. Hence, the original name of Horse Market (Koňský trhu). It is interesting to note that another, larger square in New Town, the Charles Square (Karlovo Náměstí) was created at the same time with cattle being traded there. Both squares were and still are directly linked by the busy street Vodičkova.
Wenceslas Square has been the venue of many political events especially since the 19th century national revival movement to re-establish Czech culture, language and national identity. At the time, there was already a Baroque type equestrian statue of Saint Wenceslas on the square near where the street Jindřiška is. Members of this movement would gather around the statue to discuss various matters and one of this was to give the square a more respectable name. On the continued urgings of one of the members, a writer and poet Karel Havlíček Borovský, the rulers decided to grant the name change, to the proposed St. Wenceslas Square in 1848.
Much has happened since then. The present day equestrian statue was put in its current position on the upper section of the square in 1912 (The Baroque one had been removed in 1879 and now displayed in the Lapidary). Declaration of independence of the Czechoslovak Republic was made in 1918 in front of the new statue, Soviet tanks rolled into the square in 1968 followed by Jan Palach's self-immolation in protest of the Soviet invasion, the tramline running through the square was removed in 1980, there were large scale demonstrations in 1989 just prior to the the Velvet Revolution.
In terms of architecture and buildings, the square is dominated at the upper end by the National Museum (Národní Muzeum) which is presently closed for repairs and upgrades until 2018. It was opened in 1890 during the national revival movement, same period as the National Theatre.
Along the length of the square are buildings with different architectural styles predominantly 19th to mid 20th century. These house banks, book stores, cafes, departmental stores, fashion shops, hotels, restaurants and theatres. The largest shoe store in Prague is on the square, i.e. the seven-storey Baťa building close to the street 28. října.
Two of the buildings (to the right as you look from the National Museum) with artistic facades are adjacent to each other, the Grand Hotel Evropa (no.25) and Hotel Meran (no.27). The former is Art Nouveau on the exterior and within. Hotel Zlata Husa (Golden Goose Hotel, no.7) is a late Art Nouveau building. On the opposite side, a corner unit dubbed Ice Palace (no.40), is an Art Deco building with Art Nouveau elements and has a domed tower (Starbucks occupies a part of the ground level). Hotel Adria (no.26) is in one of the oldest buildings on the square and the basement Restaurant Triton has unique cave-like decor. These are just a few of the interesting buildings on the square.
A final thought, a comparison really. Which of the equestrian statues do you prefer - the newer 1912 model or the 17th century Baroque one ...
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