Friday 7 August 2015

PRAGUE CHURCHES: LITTLE QUARTER & SUBURBS



Various churches in Old Town and in New Town had been highlighted in Churches Part I and Churches Part II respectively.

We move on to Little Quarter and to some suburbs of Prague. 

Prague suburbs collectively, have a surprising number of beautiful churches. 





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CHURCHES IN LITTLE QUARTER AND PRAGUE SUBURBS

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Church of Our Lady Beneath the Chain (Kostel Panny Marie Pod Řetězem)
Photo source: www.google.com
The oldest church in Little Quarter, it was built in the second half of the 12th century for the Order of Saint John of Jerusalem. In the 14th century, plans were made to rebuild the church but only the chancel and two towers were completed. Only three centuries later was building complete, with the Baroque additions designed by Carlo Lurago (Church of St. Salvator, Church of St. Ignatius). The name 'beneath the chain' most likely stems from there being a chain stretched from nearby the church across the Vltava river to Old Town - to stop ships from passing until a toll was paid. The church belongs today to The Order of Malta - Grand Priory of Bohemia. One of the external walls belonging to the church has been turned into a major tourist attraction and for spray painters to - i.e. the 'Lennon Wall'. There are several very good eateries in the vicinity.

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Church of Our Lady Victorious (Kostel Panny Marie Vítězné)
This is one of the most visited churches in Little Quarter and indeed in Prague and can be quite crowded. Located at the base of Petřín hill, it started out in 1611 as a German Lutheran church but was given to the Carmelites after the Catholics' victory at the Battle of White Mountain in 1620. Construction of the building was completed soon after, in the form we see today. The original entrance faced west towards the hill, but the Carmelites changed it east facing the street. The object within the church that attracts so many is the Infant Jesus of Prague (Pražské Jezulátko) - a wax coated wooden figurine from Spain that is said to have healing powers and is an object of worship be some. The Infant Jesus was a gift to the church by Polyxena of Lobkowic in 1628. Within the church is a mini museum displaying about 80 dress suits from all over the world, each custom made for the Infant Jesus.    

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Church of St.Thomas (Kostel Sv. Tomáše)
Founded in 1285 by Wencelsas II for Augustinians monks, the church was probably first built in the Romanesque style. Expansion and building, funded by various nobles, John I and his son Charles IV, continued until the church was burned down in 1420 soon after the outbreak of Hussite Wars. From the mid 15th century, rebuilding of the church resumed until the late 17th. In the 1720s, eminent architect Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer was engaged to carry out major repairs and some reconstruction of the church including the facade. There is a very comprehensive write up on the church's history and its interior at the website of the Augustinians - it makes for extremely interesting reading, also giving a glimpse of religion in Prague from the 14th to 17th centuries. After a tour, you will probably be invited to try the monastery beer brewed here.        

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Church of St. Joseph (Kostel Sv. Josefa)
Nearby to Church of St. Thomas is a church built in the late 17th century for the Carmelite sisters. There seems to be little information on the architect of the church but the statues on the facade are by artist Matěj Václav Jäckel, creator of several of the groups of statues on Charles Bridge. The church facade apparently hides an oval shaped nave and in the interiors are altars dedicated to St. Thecla (the first female Christian martyr) and St. Theresa of Avila. The church is today the home of the Francophone Roman Catholic church and the Carmelite sisters. 
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Church of St.Lawrence on Petřín (Kostel Sv. Vavrince na Petríne)
Photo source: www.wikepedia.com
First documentary evidence of the church dates to 1135. The church's architecture was changed to Gothic during the reign of Charles IV around the time of the construction of the Hunger Wall on the hill. It was reconstructed in the Baroque style in the 18th century probably designed by Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer. The church was abolished in the 1780s by Joseph II but reconsecrated in 1840. Since the mid 1990s, this has been the home of the Old Catholic Church. Next to the church is the Calvary Chapel from 1735 and along one of the roads leading to the area of the church are 14 smaller chapels also belonging to the church.  

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A SMALL SELECTION OF CHURCHES AND AN IMPORTANT MONASTERY IN PRAGUE SUBURBS

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Břevnov Monastery (Břevnovský Klášter)
Photo source: www.prague.eu
The long name of the monastery is Benedictine Arcabbey of St. Adalbert and St. Margaret in Břevnov. The monastery, the first in the country, was established in 993 by Bohemian duke Boleslav II and the second bishop of Prague St. Adalbert (Vojtěch). The 11th century Church of St. Margaret(Chrám sv. Markéty) was built here with only the original crypt remaining today. In the early 14th century, the monastery was rebuilt in Gothic style from its previous Romanesque architecture. The Order had to leave the monastery during the Hussite and Thirty Years Wars. The monks returned after the wars and in the first half of the 18th century, the monastery and church underwent repairs and reconstruction to its current form. Its designers were the father and son team of Kryštof Dientzenhofer and his son Kilián Ignác. The interior was designed by numerous local artists including sculptures by Matouš Václav Jäckel and paintings by Petr Brandl. Post Communism, the monastery was returned to the Benedictines in 1990. There is a large garden next to the monastery with a Baroque summer house designed by Kilián Ignác. Possibly as early as the 13th century, the monastery had begun brewing its own beer and still does today. 

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Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius in Karlín (Kostel Sv. Cyrila a Metoděje v Karlíně)
Photo source: www.google.com
From the exterior, one could mistake this as a restored ancient Romanesque church. Far from it, this is a relatively young church not quite 150 years old. It was consecrated in October 1863 exactly a millennium after the missionary brothers Cyril and Methodius translated the bible and other Christian texts into Old Church Slavic to enable missionary activity in Eastern Europe. The designers were Austrian Karl Rösner and Prague architect Vojtěch Ignác Ullmann and Czech artists including Josef Mánes contributed to the interior. The church is replete with rose window, three neo-Romanesque portals and a large central apse and the interior is beautifully decorated. This is one of the largest churches in the Czech Republic and certainly worth making a detour to have a look. With greenery surrounding the church, it may not be so easy to capture good photographs of the church. 

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Church of St. Ludmilla (Kostel Sv. Ludmily)
Here is another late 19th century church which looks centuries old. It is dedicated to the wife of the first Bohemian sovereign - she was documented as a pious and kind woman and is regarded as a patron saint of the Czechs, sometimes called Mother of the Czech LandsDesigned by Josef Mocker and built in 1888 to 1892, the church is located on Peace Square (Náměstí Míru) in the Prague 2 suburb of Vinohrady. The western facade has two 60 metre steeples each with two bells. The tympanum above the entrance portrays St. Ludmilla and her grandson St. Wenceslas. The interior is richly decorated with statues, murals and stained glass depicting many of the saints of importance to Czech and Slavic people. There is of course emphasis on St. Ludmilla.   

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Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord (Kostel Nejsvětějšího Srdce Páně)
The Prague suburb of Vinohrady has one of the most unique modern churches in the Czech Republic. It was built in 1929 to 1932 (as an expression of gratitude for having achieved independence in 1918) on the square Jiřího z Poděbrad, designed by the Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik, who in coming up with the plans was inspired by early Christian basilicas and antiques. The single tower spans the entire width and has a clock in the centre - making the church somewhat resemble a train station. The interior walls are red bricked and above the main altar are a gilded statue of Jesus and statues of six patron saints of the Czechs. It is part of the Roman Catholic church.  


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Church of St. Wenceslas in Smíchov (Kostel Sv. Václava v Smíchově)
This neo-Renaissance church was built from 1881 to 1885 based on the design of Czech architect Antonín Viktor Barvitius, who was inspired by the early Christian basilicas. It was built to accommodate the rising population in the industrial district (at that time) of Prague. The church's western facade with its twin towers, has statues of St. Wenceslas above the main entrance and St. Agnes of Bohemia on one of the towers. The interior is richly decorated and above the altar is a depiction of Jesus and six saints (including St. Wenceslas and St. Ludmilla). A very different church from the others in Prague - well worth making a detour to view.

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Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Kostel Sv. Márí Magdalény)
Located in the Prague suburb of Přední Kopanina near Václav Havel Airport (10 km northwest of Prague city centre), this church with a rotunda as its nave is somewhat a mystery in terms of its origins. The suburb was once a medieval village first documented in 1285, while the church's existence is only recorded from the 1350s. The church was found in bad state in the 1850s and major reconstruction was carried out. Repairs and additions continued throughout the 20th century. Only some stone masonry and a window remain from medieval times, the rest of the church is new. In the interior, the altar has statues of St. Mary Magdalene and the Virgin Mary, possibly from the 16th century. A must see for fans of Czech Romanesque structures.  
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Church of Our Lady Victorious on White Mountain (Kostel Panny Marie Vítezné na Bílé Hore)
Photo source: commons.wikimedia.org
White Mountain is that place in Prague where in just one hour, the Catholic army of the Hapsburgs defeated the Bohemian Protestants in November 1620, paving the way for a re-Catholicism of Prague/the country and the spark for the Thirty Years War. Two years later, a chapel was built near the battle site to commemorate those who died there. The chapel was in 1704 expanded into a pilgrimage church, with side chapels added. This expansion was completed in 1729/30 and in all likelihood overseen by the architect Jan Blažej Santini Aichel. The south entrance is a unique sculpted portal. Since 2007, nuns have lived here with the church under the care of the Benedictines in Břevnov.  

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